networking

Some things you can try before buying anything:

• Have 30cm space between your "router" and the floor, walls or the ceiling
• The router's antenna projects the signal similar to a flashlight projecting light on the wall. Knowing in which direction your antenna "shines" the signal can help you direct the WLAN signal where you want it. It will most likely have a spherical propagation pattern, with a bias in a certain direction. More like a candle in a paper bag than an actual flashlight I guess.
• See if you can deactivate Wifi clients that you don't need while working, like Alexas and Smart TVs. As long as they are powered on, they are sending probe requests, congesting the air and lowering latency, aka bad Team sessions.
• Check out on which channel your "router" is operating. You don't want to use the same channels as your neighbours do because of interference.
• If the channels that you and your neighbours use overlap, you can adjust the channel width or bandwidth. Try 20MHz for 2,4GHz and 40MHz for 5GHz. This will increase latency aka better Teams sessions.
• See if you can activate DFS channels. Those are channels usable for WLAN, but reserved for weather radar. Not a problem since you are indoors. Nobody uses them since they are usually deactivated by default. That means no interference which means higher throughput and better latency aka better Teams sessions.
• You can experiment with setting up a dedicated 2,4GHz SSID for use in the room behind the wall. 2,4GHz goes further and penetrates better than 5GHz. Comes a the cost of lower speeds though.
• Try deactivating 2,4GHz alltogether, too. If your laptop supports 2,4GHz and 5GHz it might switch to 2,4GhZ when the 5GHz signal is getting weak, causing hicups in the process, leading to bad Teams sessions.

If that doesn't help, consider using a mesh AP for your remote room. Mesh APs receive Data not via Ethernet cable, but via WLAN signal from your router and then send a WLAN signal out of another antenna, on another channel. You could just position one in your office or half way between your office and the "router". Maybe your Internet Service Provides offers a Mesh solution that works with your "router" out of the box. They are not to be confused with WLAN repeaters, who use the same channel to send out the signal that they are receiving it on, leading to interference, smaller throughput and lower latency.

Another option would be ethernet via powerline. I've only heard about these. They seem to work for some people and not for others. I guess it depends on the power installation in your home. They might not be the most secure, given that they use the power grid of your whole house. You can always send stuff back I guess.

Just to make things a little more clear, here are some definitions for what things are called:

Router - a piece of hardware that runs router software. It determines where internet packets go, gives devices IP addresses using DHCP, and whole host of other cool stuff. A router can have physical connections only (ethernet, for example), or they are sold as combo units with WiFi, too.

Access Point - A WiFi access point broadcasts and receives wifi signals, but still needs a router to handle the who, what, where, and when.

I suggest keeping your current router (combo) if you're happy with the management of things. To get better WiFi, you can add additional Access Points. They should be wired directly to your router. You can leave the WiFi on on your current combo-router, and just add extra WiFi as close to your devices as possible.

If you have access to Unifi products, they are pretty solid, but you'll need to boot up their controller software on a computer to get things set up.

Grandstream makes good hardware, too, and you can get them set up by accessing them directly over your network (controller software built in).

Mikrotik is a great brand and they have inexpensive Access Points, and also Router/WiFi combos (I think the combos are called "hAP"). They are enthusiast level type stuff, and not really user friendly. They do have a default configuration that will get you up and running, though. Their WiFi products are slightly behind the times (WiFi 6 is about as far along as they've come at this point, but hey, I'm still on WiFi 5 and doing fine).

I really like Mikrotik, but you have to be their target audience to enjoy using them, I think. Just throwing that out there.

Also consider using an Ethernet powerline adapter. This allows you to use the in-wall power cables to carry the network data. As long as the power outlets near the router and the area you want to use the service are on the same circuit, this should work.

I don't know much about Spain, but if you're interested at all in higher end networking in the future, you could look into a dedicated AP. If you can manage to run Ethernet cable to a central point, you can install it in a ceiling like they do at businesses and universities instead of having it in one of your rooms (probably at the edge of your residence).

I personally use a Ubiquiti AP (U6 Lite I think?), but I haven't run cable so it sits at one corner of my house (about 1200 sq ft per floor) and I get good signal throughout, except at the very edges (something like 20m I guess in the longer direction). If I moved it to be more central, no corner of my house would be more than 15m away, and probably no further than 10m (haven't measured).

So even if you can't run the cable to make one of those ceiling units work, you will probably see an improvement by getting entry-level enterprise gear. There are a number of options, just stay away from the mass market routers w/ wi-fi included if you want optimal wireless quality.

• GL.iNet GL-MT6000(Flint 2): https://www.amazon.es/-/en/dp/B0CP7S3117
• GL.iNet GL-AX1800: https://www.amazon.es/-/en/dp/B09HBW45ZJ

How many square feet and we talking? (Or square meters since you are in Spain)

OK first off, check out what WiFi band is getting through. You can get some mileage by enforcing the router and clients to connect on a specific band - they are supposed to auto select based off the best/least congested band, but these days nearly everything is squawking away there. You could try relocating your router/AP and testing - if there's a duct or a bunch of pipes in the way they may be interfering or opaque to the radio band, so moving the router might honestly result in better performance. Tape it to the ceiling if you have to (3M command strips work pretty well)

2.4Ghz gets far greater wall penetration than the modern high bandwidth 5Ghz band solutions, but it'll be limited to 54mbps or slower.

Not all WiFi access points are created equal. The antenna on a Linksys Router/AP ($??) vs. the antenna on an Ruckus AP ($500+) is a totally different animal, and it shows.

Effectively trying to coax a good signal out of radio equipment without a proper survey is more akin to dowsing or engaging in a magical ritual than anything really technical though...

Ubiquiti gear is real good to be honest.