litchralee

joined 2 years ago
[–] litchralee 0 points 4 hours ago (1 children)

I don't think I was? As a rule, I always remove the automatic +1 for my own comment, since I prefer to start the count from zero.

[–] litchralee 1 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago) (4 children)

@jayemar already gave a valid counterpoint, about how to select the technocrats in the first place. But let's suppose we did somehow select the best and brightest of their fields. The next problem is that life is messy, and there often isn't a single answer or criteria which determines what is in the public interest.

Btw, for everyone's benefit, J-PAL is the Jameel Poverty Action Lab at MIT, with branches covering different parts of the world, since policies on addressing poverty necessarily differ depending on local circumstances. They might be described as a research institute or maybe a think tank, as they advocate for more-effective solutions to poverty and give advice on how to do that.

Poverty, as an objective, can be roughly distilled into bringing everyone above some numerical economic figure. There may be different methods that bring people out of poverty, but it's fairly straightforward to assess the effectiveness of those solutions, by seeing how many people exit poverty and how much the solution costs.

Now take something like -- to stay with economics -- management of the central bank. The USA central bank (The Federal Reserve) was created with a dual mandate, which means they manage the currency with care to: 1) not let inflation run amok, and 2) keep USA unemployment low. The dual mandate is tricky because one tends to begat the other. So when both strike, what should a technocrat do? Sacrifice one goal short-term to achieve the other long-term? Try attacking both but perhaps fail at either?

Such choices are not straight yes/no or go/no-go questions, but are rightfully questions of policy and judgement. Is it fine to sell 10% of parkland for resource extraction if it will iron-clad guarantee the remaining 90% is protected as wilderness for time immemorial? How about 25%? 60%?

Subject matter experts (SMEs) are excellent at their craft, but asking them to write public policy -- even with help from other SMEs -- won't address the fuzzy dilemmas that absolutely arise in governance.

In a democratic republic, voters choose not only the politician with views they agree with, but also are subscribing to that politician's sense of judgement for all of life's unknowns. Sometimes this goes well, sometimes that trust is misplaced. Although it's imperfect, this system can answer the fuzzy dilemmas which technocracies cannot.

[–] litchralee 1 points 10 hours ago* (last edited 10 hours ago)

Irrespective of any subsequent arrests made, publicizing evidence of actual criminal activity is generally a social good, which often doesn't (but can) overlap with vigilantism. Taking the term broadly, vigilantism is doing something that the law can't/won't do. Wikipedia discusses the various definitions, some of which require the use of force (something conventionally reserved to the law or government) but the broadest definition would technically include whistleblowing and community activism. On the flip side, certain forms of publicizing evidence are illegal, such as leaking designated national secrets.

From a law perspective, in the USA, apart from that rather narrow exception and a few others, the First Amendment's guarantee of free speech provides the legal cover to reveal the genuine evidence of someone's criminal conduct, because criminal matters are: 1) in the public interest to expose, 2) an assailant cannot assert a privacy interest upon the evidence of their crime, and 3) the truth cannot be penalized by defamation claims. That basically covers any applicable USA free speech exceptions, although someone accused could file a frivolous lawsuit to financially harass the one who exposed the evidence. Such frivolous lawsuits are functionally banned only in the handful of states with anti-SLAPP laws, which is why more states and the feds need to adopt anti-SLAPP protections.

So from a legal perspective, leaking evidence of a crime is generally allowed. From a moral perspective, most would agree that it's a good thing, and it's why we have things like public trials, to showcase evidence. But does exposing crimes on one's own constitute vigilantism? I would say no, but others with a different definition might say yes, even if they also agree that's it's legally and morally correct.

[–] litchralee 1 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

In a slight departure from the norm, the article's title suits the article but the subheader is superfluous and unsupported. What on earth does pursuing advanced degrees have to do with railroad antitrust laws? The only color that this blurb adds to the article is the ugliest sort of "yellow".

The subheader's premise is wholly betrayed by the article's final conclusion:

In doing so, the Court cited a Rule of Reason it first articulated in 1899—that large size and monopoly in themselves are not necessarily evil.

So yes, certain trust-like behavior can be worthy of "regulatory and judicial punishment", because that's exactly what the public policy demands. Does it depend on a lot of things? Of course! Most things do!

I bemoan articles that lean into an assumption that something is cut-and-dry, because that's almost never the case, but here, whichever editor wrote that subheader did the author dirty. Because the article body is mostly fine, let down by bad editorship.

[–] litchralee 1 points 1 day ago
[–] litchralee -1 points 2 days ago

You and friend 1 have working setups. Friend 2 can't seem to get their setup to work. So the problem has to be specific to friend 2's machine or network.

To start at the very basics, when WG is disabled, what are friend 2's DNS servers, as listed in "/etc/resolve.conf" (Linux) or in "ipconfig" on Windows. This can be an IPv4 or IPv6 address. Whatever it is, take note of it. Also try to ping it and make sure the ping is successful.

Then have friend 2 enable WG. Now try pinging the same DNS servers again. If this fails, you are one step closer to the problem. If this succeeds, then check to see if WG caused new DNS servers to replace the former ones.

One possibility is that friend 2's home network also uses 192.168.8.X, and so the machine tries to reach the DNS servers by going through WG. But we need more details before making this conclusion.

You also said friend 2 can ping 9.9.9.9 (aka Quad9), but is this friend using Quad9 as their DNS server? If so, what exactly is observed when you say that "DNS doesn't resolve"? Is this an error in a browser or the result from running "nslookup" in the command line?

IPv6 isn't likely to be directly responsible for DNS resolution failures, but a misconfigured WG tunnel that causes an IPv6 DNS server to be blackholed is one way to create resolution failure. It may also just be red herring, and the issue is contained entirely to IPv4. I would not recommend turning off IPv6, because that's almost always the wrong answer and sweeps the other problems under the rug.

[–] litchralee 1 points 2 days ago (10 children)

It would help if you could recall what steps you did, a link to the instructions you followed, and what you're currently observing. Otherwise, we're all just guessing at what might be amiss.

[–] litchralee 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

The only reference to a manual i could find for that ebike is the "New York Ebike Battery Operating Manual", which seems to be Velotric's answer for New York State's S7503B bill from 2024, mandating that ebike sellers provide a manual.

The document has this to say:

  1. The charger is designed for indoor use only. Always charge the battery in a well-ventilated room with a smoke detector, and the ideal charging temperature for the battery is between 50°F and 77°F (10°C to 25°C).
  1. The lithium battery's limit charging temperature range is between 41°F and 86°F (5°C to 30°C). When the internal battery temperature exceeds this range, charging will automatically stop and enter protection mode.

It seems that this 10-25 C recommended limit is only for when charging the battery, not for general storage. For storage, this manual is silent as to what happens at different temperatures, but you must remember that this is a bicycle: a mode of transportation which can and will find itself exposed to the elements, come rain or sunlight.

As a general rule for li ion batteries, the ideal storage temperature is somewhere between -20 to 25 C, to minimize self discharge. Warmer storage will mean faster aging of the battery cells, but it would not imply some sort of future sudden and catastrophic failure. All batteries are mortal.

These charging and storage temperatures are further still distinct from the operating temperatures, meaning when power can be drawn from the battery.

As for the mechanical components of the bike, those will have the same, wide temperature range as storage as non-electric bicycle. After all, it's mostly metal with some rubber and plastics. What will happen, though, with exposure to sudden temperature changes -- ie bringing a bicycle from a cold, 5 C cellar to the outdoors when it's 45 C -- is that some plastics and lubricants will fail quicker. This is not specific to ebikes at all.

For your case, this uninsulated shed will not be ideal, and this particular ebike model does not have a quick-remove battery. If it did, my advice would be to bring the battery indoors to charge and store it, since 50 C is inappropriate for charging. But barring that, can this shed receive improved airflow? Or perhaps the bike can be chained to the shaded wall outside of the shed?

[–] litchralee 6 points 3 days ago

Fairly happy. Four years in, and I feel like I'm getting most of the benefits from my homegym, insofar as my 5-day routine isn't limited by a lack of equipment or machines. My goal was to undertake a consistent resistance training routine and I think I have that now.

Where I go from here is likely to be focused more on diet management.

[–] litchralee 0 points 3 days ago

When you say "charging brick", is this a 2-prong or 3-prong USB charger? I've only ever seen 2-prong units in the USA, which would make this deeply puzzling since that means the charger has no ground conductor (which is fine) yet somehow has a consistent potential w.r.t. the floor you're standing on.

Assuming it is indeed a North American 2-prong wall adapter, those are usually non-polarized, meaning that they don't rely on line and neutral to be in a particular orientation. So still, I can't see how the charger itself could be passing through a current -- however slightly -- across a difference of 16-65 VDC.

To be clear, you don't live near any large magnetic fields, right? Does a magnetic compass work properly in or around your home?

[–] litchralee 8 points 3 days ago

I've been reading a lot of Soatok's blog, so when I see software that claims to be privacy-oriented, my first thought is: secure against what?

And in a refreshing change of pace, CryptPad actually outlines their threat model and how the software features might widen certain threats plus how to avoid those pitfalls. I'm not a security expert, but it's clear they paid at least some attention to assuring privacy, rather than just paying it lip-service. So we're off to a good start.

[–] litchralee 6 points 6 days ago

My first thought was to the Three Body Problem book trilogy. Excellent sci-fi novels.

1
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by litchralee to c/[email protected]
 

(fairly recent NewPipe user; ver 0.27.6)

Is there a way to hide particular live streams from showing up on the "What's New" tab? I found the option in Settings->Content->Fetch Channel Tabs which will prevent all live streams from showing in the tab. But I'm looking for an option to selective hide only certain live streams from the tab.

Some of my YouTube channels have 24/7 live streams (eg Arising Empire), which will always show at the top of the page. But I don't want to hide all live streams from all channels, since I do want to see if new live streams appear, usually ones that aren't 24/7.

Ideally, there'd be an option to long-press on a live stream in the tab, one which says "Hide From Feed", which would then prevent that particular stream ID from appearing in the feed for subsequent fetches.

From an implementation perspective, I imagine there would be some UI complexity in how to un-hide a stream, and to list out all hidden streams. If this isn't possible yet, I can try to draft a feature proposal later.

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

28
submitted 4 weeks ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) by litchralee to c/[email protected]
 

A while ago, I wrote this overview of California's Coast Rail Corridor project, which would run conventional trains between the existing, popular, state-subsidized commuter rail systems in Northern and Southern California. This is nowhere near as sexy as high-speed rail, but imagine a single seat that rolls through the rice paddies outside Sacramento, past the oil refineries of Richmond in the Bay Area, down through Oakland adjacent the Coliseum, bisecting Silicon Valley, then hugging the coast of Central California towards the beaches of Santa Barbara entering Los Angeles County and then further to San Diego.

Then make it affordable and timely, and all of a sudden there's a way to spend time watching the scenery slowly, while also being practical. Trains are much less of a slog than sitting on a bus. High speed rail is important and laudable, but this humble, rather dull project will likely carry passengers between north and south a decade or more before high speed rail does, which is why the state is pursuing it in parallel.

I hope this type of content is an alright fit for this community.

 

You must have exactly two 5x7 glossy prints in your cart for the code to apply.

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

21
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by litchralee to c/[email protected]
 

In the thumbnail is my freehub after running a new set of wheels for 1700 km. From how I understand the "anti-bite" feature, it should prevent the cassette from gouging further into the soft metal of the splines, by taking up those forces on the strip of steel on one of the splines. And that seems like a reasonable idea, since further gouging beyond a cosmetic issue would prevent removal of the cassette.

My question is whether the higher torque caused by a mid-drive torque might one day overwhelm the steel strip, resulting in a locked cassette to the freehub. So far, I don't see any evidence of the strip giving way, and I'm normally under the assumption that the allowable torques of standard bicycles -- although tested by ebikes -- should still tolerate this sort of application.

Does anyone know of scenarios where the anti-bite strip fails in-situ? Note that this isn't a particularly pricey freehub, and I mostly built up this wheel as a long-term test to see how long it would last. For when it does fail, I plan to rebuild with a DT Swiss hub, finances allowing.

2
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by litchralee to c/freebies
 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

(Does this community allow posts about product restorations? I didn't forge these skillets, but I did make them usable and appealing again.)

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/30170080

(long time lurker, first time poster)

A few months ago, a friend convinced me on the benefits of cast iron skillets. Having only used Teflon-coated non-stick pans, I figured it would be worth a try, if I could find one at the thrift store. Sure, I could have just bought a new Lodge skillet, but that's too easy lol.

So a few weeks pass and I eventually find these two specimens at my local thrift store, for $5 and $8 respectively. It's not entirely clear to me why the smaller skillet cost more, but it was below $10 so I didn't complain too loudly. My cursory web searches at the store suggested that old Wagner skillets are of reasonable quality, so I took the plunge. My assumption is that the unmarked, smaller skillet is also a Wagner product.

10-inch skillet ($5) 9-inch skillet ($8)
a crusty 10-inch cast iron skillet with "Wagner" vaguely visible in the inscription
a crusty 9-inch cast iron skillet; no brand name

It's very clear that both these skillets are very crusty. Initially, I tried to remove the buildup using a brass wire brush. This was only somewhat successful, so I switched to a stainless steel wire brush. That also didn't do much, except reveal some of the inscription on the bottom.

the 10-inch skillet after stripping with a wire brush, with "Wagner Ware Sidney" and "1058 1" visible in the inscription

Some research suggested I could either do an electrolysis tank, a lye bath, or try lye-based oven cleaner. For want of not over-complicating my first restoration attempt, I went with the oven cleaner method, using the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Pvf0m9jTeE

For both skillets, I had to apply the oven cleaner six times to finally shift all the crud, each time leaving the skillets in the garbage bag for a full day-and-a-half in the sun. In between applications, I would brush off more buildup, with the handle root and the skillet walls being the most stubborn areas. The whole process smelled terrible and hunching over the garage utility sink to brush pans is not my idea of a pleasant time.

Nevertheless, having stripped both pans, I proceeded with six rounds of seasoning with very old corn oil -- it's what was handy -- at 450 F (~230 C) using my toaster oven. This happened over six days, since I wanted to use my excess daytime solar power for this endeavor. I wiped on the oil using a single blue shop towel, to avoid the issues of lint or fraying with paper towel.

I don't have a post-seasoning photo for the larger skillet, but here's how the 9-inch skillet turned out. I think I did a decent job for a first attempt. And I'm thrilled that these are as non-stick as promised, with only minimal upkeep required after each use.

9-inch skillet, top side, with "7" inscribed on the handle

9-inch skillet, bottom side, reading "9 3/4 inch skillet"

1
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by litchralee to c/kayaking
 

Following up from my earlier query, my Tucktec 2025 Pro folding kayak arrived at the tail end of October, which is just about within the window when I expected it. When placing the pre-order in late July ($273 shipped), they said it would not ship for at least 60 days, so 90-ish days later was indeed correct on their part. The currently listed price (December 2024) appears to be at least $430 after shipping.

It arrived in a single large cardboard carton, easily brought indoors. Inside, I found the bright-yellow kayak already folded up. Opening it out, the various parts were: the kayak itself, the brief instruction manual, the seat, the seat's support struts, the skeg, and the Velcro belt used to hold the kayak in its folded state.

When I say the instruction manual is brief, I mean that it basically said to go to the website and watch the assembly and folding video. No actual procedure is given in the printed manual, which is a minor annoyance. It should also be noted -- and I knew this when ordering, but it's worth mentioning for other folks -- that this kayak does not come with a paddle. So this is definitely not any sort of turnkey kayaking product, and it never claimed to be.

The seat itself is made from foam with similar consistency to packaging material -- not a bad thing -- and backed by the same plastic sheet as the main kayak body. The support struts are actual Schedule plastic piping, the same sort used for plumbing. When assembling, the seat is very easy to attach/detach, although I do find attaching the struts to the kayak to be rather cumbersome. Essentially, you have to bend away a plastic hole to let the strut slide in. The exact procedure in the video seems to be the only way to make this work.

As for building up the kayak body, the metal latches (aluminum?) on this model make this a breeze. That said, of the four latches surrounding the cockpit, the two forward latches seem to be inopportunely placed where they might interfere with the paddle stroke. But maybe that's a matter of paddle technique.

Lastly, the skeg has a fairly simple design, such that it slots into one of the existing folds when building up the kayak body, and will pivot up if it hits an underwater obstruction. There is no user-operated retraction feature. The video says that only the Pro model has the skeg, suggesting the skeg is optional. But having taken this kayak out onto the local reservoir without the skeg, I had a difficult time keeping it tracking straight. I suspect the skeg may be functionally required for reasonable performance.

I will note that I have no kayaking experience to reference, apart from briefly paddling around in other people's kayaks during camping trips on calm water. However, I did review REI's comprehensive articles and did invest in a PFD before going out. My choice of paddle was partially based on it splitting in two and sliding within the folded kayak bundle, and that worked as expected.

As for transporting the kayak in its folded state, I believe the hype is warranted, as it will fit into the width of a typical car trunk, or will fit with just one seat folded down. Carrying it from a parking area to the beach is also fairly easy with the shoulder strap, provided that one hand is available to stabilize it in the wind. A nice quirk is that the final fold of the kayak forms a nice "base" so that when setting the bundle down on pavement, it will remain standing and not just fall over. This could be useful for longer jaunts to the water's edge.

Lastly, unfolding the kayak at home makes it trivial to hose down, as part of post-paddling clean up. It also seems to dry faster this way.

Overall, as a novice kayaker, I think this is a reasonable product, although their website certainly doesn't sell it as well as a comparable Oru folding kayak. Later, I will pursue taking this kayak with me by bus and by bicycle (with a custom mount to stand it up). I think it fits the bill for someone wishing to paddle recreationally but without committing to storing/moving a hardshell kayak, or wishes to start with minimal investment.

174
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by litchralee to c/[email protected]
 

(long time lurker, first time poster)

A few months ago, a friend convinced me on the benefits of cast iron skillets. Having only used Teflon-coated non-stick pans, I figured it would be worth a try, if I could find one at the thrift store. Sure, I could have just bought a new Lodge skillet, but that's too easy lol.

So a few weeks pass and I eventually find these two specimens at my local thrift store, for $5 and $8 respectively. It's not entirely clear to me why the smaller skillet cost more, but it was below $10 so I didn't complain too loudly. My cursory web searches at the store suggested that old Wagner skillets are of reasonable quality, so I took the plunge. My assumption is that the unmarked, smaller skillet is also a Wagner product.

10-inch skillet ($5) 9-inch skillet ($8)
a crusty 10-inch cast iron skillet with "Wagner" vaguely visible in the inscription
a crusty 9-inch cast iron skillet; no brand name

It's very clear that both these skillets are very crusty. Initially, I tried to remove the buildup using a brass wire brush. This was only somewhat successful, so I switched to a stainless steel wire brush. That also didn't do much, except reveal some of the inscription on the bottom.

the 10-inch skillet after stripping with a wire brush, with "Wagner Ware Sidney" and "1058 1" visible in the inscription

Some research suggested I could either do an electrolysis tank, a lye bath, or try lye-based oven cleaner. For want of not over-complicating my first restoration attempt, I went with the oven cleaner method, using the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Pvf0m9jTeE

For both skillets, I had to apply the oven cleaner six times to finally shift all the crud, each time leaving the skillets in the garbage bag for a full day-and-a-half in the sun. In between applications, I would brush off more buildup, with the handle root and the skillet walls being the most stubborn areas. The whole process smelled terrible and hunching over the garage utility sink to brush pans is not my idea of a pleasant time.

Nevertheless, having stripped both pans, I proceeded with six rounds of seasoning with very old corn oil -- it's what was handy -- at 450 F (~230 C) using my toaster oven. This happened over six days, since I wanted to use my excess daytime solar power for this endeavor. I wiped on the oil using a single blue shop towel, to avoid the issues of lint or fraying with paper towel.

I don't have a post-seasoning photo for the larger skillet, but here's how the 9-inch skillet turned out. I think I did a decent job for a first attempt. And I'm thrilled that these are as non-stick as promised, with only minimal upkeep required after each use.

9-inch skillet, top side, with "7" inscribed on the handle

9-inch skillet, bottom side, reading "9 3/4 inch skillet"

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

view more: next ›