litchralee

joined 2 years ago
[–] litchralee 0 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

The other comments have covered a lot of the background and variances throughout the world. But what I'll add is that few countries are purely in one camp or the other. To use the USA as an example, criminal cases are adversarial, in the sense that the defense attorney will duke it out with the government's attorney whether someone goes to prison.

For civil cases like a contract dispute, the procedure is closer to an inquisition system, although with the judge still merely presiding over the process. But attorneys in a USA civil case can depose witnesses, much like how (I think) a European judge-led inquisition would call a witness, and similar to how British coroners conduct an inquest (if murder mystery depictions on the BBC are accurate).

Perhaps the full thrust of the inquisition style can be found in USA federal agencies, whose rulemaking capacity requires asking direct questions to subject matter experts in a public forum, one which eventually leads to a determination on some germane topic, often enacting secondary legislation at the same time. Americans might not necessarily call such an action as a "ruling", but evidence was taken, all sides were heard, and even public comment was accepted, before rendering a decision.

That said, one could argue that such "Article III" rulemaking (eg FCC Commissioners) or judgements (eg Immigration Court) are distinct from the traditional judicial rulings from "Article I" courts (eg US Supreme Court). But that's a Constitutional wrinkle for another discussion.

[–] litchralee 9 points 2 days ago (2 children)

In Western use, mostly for blowing one's nose or wiping sweat off one's brow. Sometimes in a cinematic manner which evokes refinement in the course of labor. Might also be used to blot tears, either one's own or to give to someone who has tears but no hanky.

In East Asian use, as a hand towel, since many public bathrooms do not provision paper towels. Very useful in the USA as well, since many restrooms are moving towards air dryers of varying quality. But a handkerchief is always on-hand and can also reduce time spent in the restroom.

I personally keep two handkerchiefs on me, for both the Western and East Asian use-cases.

[–] litchralee 8 points 2 days ago

I am always deeply enthralled when math and comp-sci unite to yield an elegant result, where my definition of elegance is: efficient + minimal.

[–] litchralee 13 points 2 days ago

I mean, you're still using a resource that was provisioned only for emergency use. The rough analogy is borrowing the exterior-mounted fire extinguisher of your apartment building to use it as a temporary paperweight, and then putting it back after two minutes.

Your use of it in this way might be benign, but if everyone is doing that, someone will eventually mess up and that resource won't be there when it's truly needed. Plus, what is the objective from calling your own elevator while you're in it? Just yell lol

I don't mean to sound boring, but while there's a time and place for pranks and fun in an elevator, I personally think the emergency equipment is off-limits. Everything else is fair game, up to and including playing Doom on the LCD screen that modern elevators seem to have.

[–] litchralee 12 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (4 children)

Could you explain more about what you observed? Many elevator phones have an inbound number, so that emergency responders can return a call, although it would be unlisted for obvious reasons. So far as I'm aware, the phone is akin to a normal phone line, rather than being a special line like a payphone. So if you did find the number, it may be possible to call it.

That said, I can't endorse messing around with the emergency equipment in an elevator, even though it's not actively in use. Enough prank calls might cause the property management to disconnect the line, making it unavailable when an actual emergency arises. And even though that would incur legal liability for the management, that would still mean someone who needed help couldn't get help.

EDIT: And just to get ahead of anyone suggesting that calling the emergency phone is a way to test it, it really isn't. A true test would be making an outbound call to the emergency dispatcher, and then asking them to verify the caller ID and return the call. Good property management should already be doing this regularly, in the same way as testing the fire alarms and checking extinguishers.

[–] litchralee 6 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago)

(I'm assuming you're in USA)

The other commenters have correctly described how you could run metallic conduit (EMT) or PVC, and that would be perfectly acceptable for "low voltage" wires like twisted pair Ethernet. But it's also kinda overbuilding it, because EMT or PVC are also suitable for "line voltage" AC electricity. Other conduit types are available, depending on your jurisdiction, since EMT is meant to provide physical protection and PVC is meant for be water-resistant. And both provide physical support for the wires within. None of these qualities are really required for Cat 5/6 cabling.

Here in California, it is permissible to use ENT -- with an N -- also known as Smurf tube for its blue color, for line-voltage applications where no environmental protection (physical, UV, vibrations) is required. Smurf tube is made from thin, corrugated plastic in standard sizes, so it's easy to pass through top-plates and anchor to studs. This makes it an excellent choice for organizing low-voltage wires, or for future proofing.

Indeed, if you really wanted to, you could terminate the Smurf tube into standard outlet boxes, so that there's zero exposure to the insulation batts within the wall, for when you later fish the cables through. For a still-acceptable arrangement, the Smurf tube could be anchored just above where you've cut out a hole for the future wall-plate, allowing retrieval of the cable through that hole. You should not later use these conduits for AC electricity though, and mixing low-voltage and line-voltage in the same conduit or box is typically prohibited.

I do think that conduit is true future proofing. Who knows if CAT6, 7, or 8 just gets replaced (finally) with fibre optic cables. Or perhaps you decide to become a ham radio operator and thus need to run specialized coax. Or maybe you really want a 50 ft HDMI cable from the upstairs living room down to the man-cave in this basement. Running wire today is temporary, but conduit is forever haha.

[–] litchralee 0 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) (1 children)

Normally, the bonding arrangement should also include a connection to the slab, by way of a piece of rebar poking up from the foundation. The point of bonding is to attach as many normally-grounded things together, and this usually happens around the service entrance, as a matter of convenience. Here in California, we might use an outlet box on the side of the house to reveal the rebar bonding link, but perhaps Canada puts it somewhere else due to the heat loss in winter.

I should add that I might have a bit of a complex grounding situation. I'm sharing a well and internet connection with my old house which is about 200' away on the same property.

That the new house is a subordinate structure has a small impact on how the bonding is set up. Since neutral and ground are already bonded at the service for the old house -- and I'm assuming there are no transformers used over that 200 ft wire run -- the new house must make sure to not bond ground and neutral. Indeed, after the bonding point in the old house, ground and neutral should never be intentionally bonded anywhere else. A mistaken bond can lead to the "objectionable currents" I mentioned earlier, but this is diagnosed the same way by turning stuff off to see if the voltage goes away.

But apart from this difference compared to the old house, all other things should be bonded to the new house's ground: water fitting, shield wires (if present) on any telecom wires, gas pipe. Because of your substantial distance between the two structures, it's possible that the grounding system would have been simpler if the electrical service was "derived" using a transformer, such that the new house would have a different service that would be bonded to its ground, just like a standard home. But that ship has sailed.

A brass fitting on the poly pipe bringing water into my new house is at the same potential as my slab - that is, 20V from electrical ground.

Once the source of your ground current is found and mitigated, you may also consider bonding this water fitting to ground, at both the old and new homes. That way, if a future issue arises with the ground, it won't be using the water as a conductor and causing a shock risk. Even if you don't find the source of ground current, this is still a good idea, since some ground currents are perfectly natural -- especially over 200 ft -- but the risks posed by them can be mitigated by forcing everything to be at the same voltage (thus no more shock risk).

Indeed, one way that electricians test for the magnitude of a ground fault is to set up a temporary bond and measure the current through it. If large residual currents start to flow, it might indicate that the proper bonding elsewhere is faulty. I think you correctly assessed your issue as definitely non-trivial and an electrician should investigate thoroughly.

I'm using Cat6 copper to share the internet and am only getting 100Mbps on the link.

Seeing as you've already buried the cable, my comments are a bit late. But ground issues for twisted-pair Ethernet cables between buildings is a known issue, with no real solutions other than using non-conductive fibre optic cables or wireless links to bridge between buildings. At my work, we somewhat regularly see issues with twisted-pair cables running between buildings on campus, with the typical result being the death of the switch port where the cable plugs into.

It's true that Ethernet is supposed to use mini-transformers to isolate the grounds at either end of the cable, but that's not the only issue: having 200 ft of conductor means that a distant lightning strike induces a sizable voltage on these wires, even when underground. Those mini-transformers behind each port might only tolerate 2000 volt spikes, so if they've already been damaged by induced voltages, degraded performance would permanently affect the switch port, although the cable might still be intact.

You may want to re-verify your Ethernet cable using different equipment at the ends, but it may only be a matter of time until future issues arise. At work, we solved most of our woes by changing to wireless APs (eg Ubiquiti) aimed using line-of-sight for existing buildings. Between new buildings, we run fibre cables and then use a converter to turn it back into standard twisted-pair Ethernet once inside the structure.

[–] litchralee 4 points 5 days ago

This is essentially a quick rundown of open-source software licensing. The notice is saying that the TikTok app uses some software that is owned by Facebook, but that Facebook has irrevocably licensed the software such that anyone (including you or TikTok) can use and distribute that software for free, provided they follow the few rules in the BSD 3-clause license, which has three clauses: 1) include these three clauses with any source code copy of Facebook's software, 2) include these three clauses in the docs bundled with any compiled app that uses Facebook's software, and 3) do not use Facebook's name in a way that implies an endorsement or affiliation with Facebook.

TikTok can continue using that particular version of Facebook's software until the heat death of the universe, and Facebook can never come back later and demand payment from TikTok or you or anyone for that software. But Facebook is still considered the owner, because they retain the right to relicense the software under different terms, perhaps with a license that doesn't require including the copyright notice, for example. Likewise, Facebook has the right to sue to enforce the BSD 3-clause terms against anyone who isn't abiding by those terms. But it looks like TikTok is abiding, since they posted the full BSD 3-clause terms, so Facebook can't complain.

Note: Facebook could change the license for later versions of the software, but any versions prior would be unaffected. Integrating any software commercially always requires checking the license terms, and while open-source software has fairly standardized terms, diligence is still important and licenses do occasionally change.

[–] litchralee 3 points 5 days ago (1 children)

To start, it might be worth reviewing the recommended antenna traces for wireless ICs, since vendors often provide precomputed and validated reference designs in their data sheets. These are often what are made into breakout boards, and there's a lot which can be learned by what these reference designs take into consideration.

I've not specifically done PCB designs with antennas, but I have done my own designs for high-speed differential signals, where the impedance of two traces have to be consistent along their length, whether side-by-side or on opposite sides of the PCB. As you observed, KiCAD can do a lot of this computation but good antenna design means even the pads that attach to the IC also need to be impedance-matched. And that requires both an understanding of where problems arise (eg when traces turn a corner), how to compute the effects (using KiCAD's features), and whether the issue might not even make a big difference in overall performance.

[–] litchralee 2 points 5 days ago (5 children)

Canada has, I think, the same electrical grounding approach as the USA for modern construction-- TN-C-S if using IEC notation. So there should be a ground rod (or two) on the property which ties (aka bonds) the electrical ground with the building itself. This should result in the floors and walls being the same voltage as the ground pin at every receptacle, and thus the surfaces of every metal appliance.

It's hard to imagine a missing bonding link to the ground rod for new construction, so the next possibility is that an appliance somewhere is miswired and is using the ground wire as a neutral. While it's true that the TN-C-S grounding system does bond ground and neutral, the ground wire must not actually carry any current in regular service.

Problems from a ground wire being used as the return path include: 1) generating interference for sensitive circuits that expect the ground wire to be unused, 2) possibility of tripping GFCI circuits, and 3) most disturbingly of all, the ground wire voltage is raised above that of the building, creating a shock risk.

Most insidious of all is that a miswired appliance will "pollute" the ground wire for the entire house with this dangerous voltage. So troubleshooting would generally require either measuring for "objectionable current" on the ground wire of every branch circuit, or shutting off circuits until the ground wire voltage disappears. If every circuit is powered off and the voltage still appears, then it might actually be the missing bonding link mentioned earlier. A competent electrician will be able to diagnose either scenario, though either really shouldn't be happening for new construction.

[–] litchralee 1 points 5 days ago

I think you're right, as prosumer and low-end enterprise switch vendors have less of an incentive to bundle first-party xcvrs along with switch sales. However, the ISP and large-enteprise market segments still have vendor locks, although many have an "allow unsupported xcvr" mode which will apply best-effort to operate a third-party xcvr but the warranty won't be honored while such a xcvr is installed.

The likes of Cisco and HPE do things like this, but given that the target customers of such switches are buying them in the hundreds to thousands, and each switch already costs thousands of dollars, the cost of first-party pluggables is just a part of the deal. Such customers also value reliability to a greater degree, so even a miniscule prospect of incompatibility will be avoided.

Insofar as it pertains to this community, the ability to enable the unsupported xcvr mode means old high-end equipment gets a second life in someone's homelab, since warranties stop mattering there

[–] litchralee 2 points 6 days ago

I know they say to wear layered outfits in anticipation of varying weather or temperature, but if I'm expecting a hail of arrows while en-route to a business lunch, something has already gone very wrong lol

28
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by litchralee to c/[email protected]
 

A while ago, I wrote this overview of California's Coast Rail Corridor project, which would run conventional trains between the existing, popular, state-subsidized commuter rail systems in Northern and Southern California. This is nowhere near as sexy as high-speed rail, but imagine a single seat that rolls through the rice paddies outside Sacramento, past the oil refineries of Richmond in the Bay Area, down through Oakland adjacent the Coliseum, bisecting Silicon Valley, then hugging the coast of Central California towards the beaches of Santa Barbara entering Los Angeles County and then further to San Diego.

Then make it affordable and timely, and all of a sudden there's a way to spend time watching the scenery slowly, while also being practical. Trains are much less of a slog than sitting on a bus. High speed rail is important and laudable, but this humble, rather dull project will likely carry passengers between north and south a decade or more before high speed rail does, which is why the state is pursuing it in parallel.

I hope this type of content is an alright fit for this community.

 

You must have exactly two 5x7 glossy prints in your cart for the code to apply.

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In the thumbnail is my freehub after running a new set of wheels for 1700 km. From how I understand the "anti-bite" feature, it should prevent the cassette from gouging further into the soft metal of the splines, by taking up those forces on the strip of steel on one of the splines. And that seems like a reasonable idea, since further gouging beyond a cosmetic issue would prevent removal of the cassette.

My question is whether the higher torque caused by a mid-drive torque might one day overwhelm the steel strip, resulting in a locked cassette to the freehub. So far, I don't see any evidence of the strip giving way, and I'm normally under the assumption that the allowable torques of standard bicycles -- although tested by ebikes -- should still tolerate this sort of application.

Does anyone know of scenarios where the anti-bite strip fails in-situ? Note that this isn't a particularly pricey freehub, and I mostly built up this wheel as a long-term test to see how long it would last. For when it does fail, I plan to rebuild with a DT Swiss hub, finances allowing.

2
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by litchralee to c/freebies
 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

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(Does this community allow posts about product restorations? I didn't forge these skillets, but I did make them usable and appealing again.)

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/30170080

(long time lurker, first time poster)

A few months ago, a friend convinced me on the benefits of cast iron skillets. Having only used Teflon-coated non-stick pans, I figured it would be worth a try, if I could find one at the thrift store. Sure, I could have just bought a new Lodge skillet, but that's too easy lol.

So a few weeks pass and I eventually find these two specimens at my local thrift store, for $5 and $8 respectively. It's not entirely clear to me why the smaller skillet cost more, but it was below $10 so I didn't complain too loudly. My cursory web searches at the store suggested that old Wagner skillets are of reasonable quality, so I took the plunge. My assumption is that the unmarked, smaller skillet is also a Wagner product.

10-inch skillet ($5) 9-inch skillet ($8)
a crusty 10-inch cast iron skillet with "Wagner" vaguely visible in the inscription
a crusty 9-inch cast iron skillet; no brand name

It's very clear that both these skillets are very crusty. Initially, I tried to remove the buildup using a brass wire brush. This was only somewhat successful, so I switched to a stainless steel wire brush. That also didn't do much, except reveal some of the inscription on the bottom.

the 10-inch skillet after stripping with a wire brush, with "Wagner Ware Sidney" and "1058 1" visible in the inscription

Some research suggested I could either do an electrolysis tank, a lye bath, or try lye-based oven cleaner. For want of not over-complicating my first restoration attempt, I went with the oven cleaner method, using the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Pvf0m9jTeE

For both skillets, I had to apply the oven cleaner six times to finally shift all the crud, each time leaving the skillets in the garbage bag for a full day-and-a-half in the sun. In between applications, I would brush off more buildup, with the handle root and the skillet walls being the most stubborn areas. The whole process smelled terrible and hunching over the garage utility sink to brush pans is not my idea of a pleasant time.

Nevertheless, having stripped both pans, I proceeded with six rounds of seasoning with very old corn oil -- it's what was handy -- at 450 F (~230 C) using my toaster oven. This happened over six days, since I wanted to use my excess daytime solar power for this endeavor. I wiped on the oil using a single blue shop towel, to avoid the issues of lint or fraying with paper towel.

I don't have a post-seasoning photo for the larger skillet, but here's how the 9-inch skillet turned out. I think I did a decent job for a first attempt. And I'm thrilled that these are as non-stick as promised, with only minimal upkeep required after each use.

9-inch skillet, top side, with "7" inscribed on the handle

9-inch skillet, bottom side, reading "9 3/4 inch skillet"

1
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by litchralee to c/kayaking
 

Following up from my earlier query, my Tucktec 2025 Pro folding kayak arrived at the tail end of October, which is just about within the window when I expected it. When placing the pre-order in late July ($273 shipped), they said it would not ship for at least 60 days, so 90-ish days later was indeed correct on their part. The currently listed price (December 2024) appears to be at least $430 after shipping.

It arrived in a single large cardboard carton, easily brought indoors. Inside, I found the bright-yellow kayak already folded up. Opening it out, the various parts were: the kayak itself, the brief instruction manual, the seat, the seat's support struts, the skeg, and the Velcro belt used to hold the kayak in its folded state.

When I say the instruction manual is brief, I mean that it basically said to go to the website and watch the assembly and folding video. No actual procedure is given in the printed manual, which is a minor annoyance. It should also be noted -- and I knew this when ordering, but it's worth mentioning for other folks -- that this kayak does not come with a paddle. So this is definitely not any sort of turnkey kayaking product, and it never claimed to be.

The seat itself is made from foam with similar consistency to packaging material -- not a bad thing -- and backed by the same plastic sheet as the main kayak body. The support struts are actual Schedule plastic piping, the same sort used for plumbing. When assembling, the seat is very easy to attach/detach, although I do find attaching the struts to the kayak to be rather cumbersome. Essentially, you have to bend away a plastic hole to let the strut slide in. The exact procedure in the video seems to be the only way to make this work.

As for building up the kayak body, the metal latches (aluminum?) on this model make this a breeze. That said, of the four latches surrounding the cockpit, the two forward latches seem to be inopportunely placed where they might interfere with the paddle stroke. But maybe that's a matter of paddle technique.

Lastly, the skeg has a fairly simple design, such that it slots into one of the existing folds when building up the kayak body, and will pivot up if it hits an underwater obstruction. There is no user-operated retraction feature. The video says that only the Pro model has the skeg, suggesting the skeg is optional. But having taken this kayak out onto the local reservoir without the skeg, I had a difficult time keeping it tracking straight. I suspect the skeg may be functionally required for reasonable performance.

I will note that I have no kayaking experience to reference, apart from briefly paddling around in other people's kayaks during camping trips on calm water. However, I did review REI's comprehensive articles and did invest in a PFD before going out. My choice of paddle was partially based on it splitting in two and sliding within the folded kayak bundle, and that worked as expected.

As for transporting the kayak in its folded state, I believe the hype is warranted, as it will fit into the width of a typical car trunk, or will fit with just one seat folded down. Carrying it from a parking area to the beach is also fairly easy with the shoulder strap, provided that one hand is available to stabilize it in the wind. A nice quirk is that the final fold of the kayak forms a nice "base" so that when setting the bundle down on pavement, it will remain standing and not just fall over. This could be useful for longer jaunts to the water's edge.

Lastly, unfolding the kayak at home makes it trivial to hose down, as part of post-paddling clean up. It also seems to dry faster this way.

Overall, as a novice kayaker, I think this is a reasonable product, although their website certainly doesn't sell it as well as a comparable Oru folding kayak. Later, I will pursue taking this kayak with me by bus and by bicycle (with a custom mount to stand it up). I think it fits the bill for someone wishing to paddle recreationally but without committing to storing/moving a hardshell kayak, or wishes to start with minimal investment.

174
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by litchralee to c/[email protected]
 

(long time lurker, first time poster)

A few months ago, a friend convinced me on the benefits of cast iron skillets. Having only used Teflon-coated non-stick pans, I figured it would be worth a try, if I could find one at the thrift store. Sure, I could have just bought a new Lodge skillet, but that's too easy lol.

So a few weeks pass and I eventually find these two specimens at my local thrift store, for $5 and $8 respectively. It's not entirely clear to me why the smaller skillet cost more, but it was below $10 so I didn't complain too loudly. My cursory web searches at the store suggested that old Wagner skillets are of reasonable quality, so I took the plunge. My assumption is that the unmarked, smaller skillet is also a Wagner product.

10-inch skillet ($5) 9-inch skillet ($8)
a crusty 10-inch cast iron skillet with "Wagner" vaguely visible in the inscription
a crusty 9-inch cast iron skillet; no brand name

It's very clear that both these skillets are very crusty. Initially, I tried to remove the buildup using a brass wire brush. This was only somewhat successful, so I switched to a stainless steel wire brush. That also didn't do much, except reveal some of the inscription on the bottom.

the 10-inch skillet after stripping with a wire brush, with "Wagner Ware Sidney" and "1058 1" visible in the inscription

Some research suggested I could either do an electrolysis tank, a lye bath, or try lye-based oven cleaner. For want of not over-complicating my first restoration attempt, I went with the oven cleaner method, using the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Pvf0m9jTeE

For both skillets, I had to apply the oven cleaner six times to finally shift all the crud, each time leaving the skillets in the garbage bag for a full day-and-a-half in the sun. In between applications, I would brush off more buildup, with the handle root and the skillet walls being the most stubborn areas. The whole process smelled terrible and hunching over the garage utility sink to brush pans is not my idea of a pleasant time.

Nevertheless, having stripped both pans, I proceeded with six rounds of seasoning with very old corn oil -- it's what was handy -- at 450 F (~230 C) using my toaster oven. This happened over six days, since I wanted to use my excess daytime solar power for this endeavor. I wiped on the oil using a single blue shop towel, to avoid the issues of lint or fraying with paper towel.

I don't have a post-seasoning photo for the larger skillet, but here's how the 9-inch skillet turned out. I think I did a decent job for a first attempt. And I'm thrilled that these are as non-stick as promised, with only minimal upkeep required after each use.

9-inch skillet, top side, with "7" inscribed on the handle

9-inch skillet, bottom side, reading "9 3/4 inch skillet"

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

 

Use the code on the Walgreens app and the website to claim the same offer twice!

When uploading photos using the desktop website, make sure to select Full Resolution in the Upload Preferences.

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