j4k3

joined 1 year ago
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[–] [email protected] 7 points 3 days ago (2 children)

... In other news... A livestock breakthrough using CRISPR grows cattle with a complete lack of pain. Tune in for the full story, "Vegan Beef," on Fox News at eleven!...

...I don't know about you Karen, but between the vegan human brains, and disposable painless laborers subscriptions from Monsteranto, neo ethics are amazing... ^said^ ^to^ ^cohost^ ^nervously^ /s

[–] [email protected] 2 points 4 days ago

I can't imagine anyone being accurate in a world where a growing percentage of people are disconnecting from traditional media sources.

[–] [email protected] 22 points 4 days ago

It is not democracy. This is the gutting of the US in favor of a neo feudal dystopia.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 4 days ago

900 series Hakko tips are the only ones that matter IMO. All of my heat press inserted brass threaded insert and extraction tips are 900 series, as are my ribbon cable soldering tips, and my X-Acto razor hot knife. Any other tip type is secondary limited use case novelty tool.

I think all the other tip types at this point are just marketing to try to obfuscate the ubiquity of the 900 series stuff. Even if you buy into the direct heat marketing nonsense like I did at first, you can etch and cut an offset circuit board inside a 900 series handle to place the element in direct contact with the side of your tips and extend to the full length without the manufacturing tolerance that these normally come with.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 4 days ago (3 children)

Uhhh... somebody call the BBC

[–] [email protected] 10 points 4 days ago

I think he was already broken; DOA at birth

[–] [email protected] 9 points 5 days ago

All 3 are brunettes, but look how that little one bounces off the fake blonde's ass

[–] [email protected] 2 points 5 days ago

This is awk, that does not vi, man man

  • :q
[–] [email protected] 19 points 5 days ago (3 children)
[–] [email protected] 14 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) (1 children)

As someone that has learned FreeCAD/slicing/printing and someone that can set feed, speed, and sizzle bacon with a side of chips, I'm not as proficient/experienced with machine tools as I am with design and printing, but for the time I've spent doing both, the total learning curve is about equivalent in my opinion.

See, the thing is, with 3d printing functional stuff, you can't just grab a file and print like this. It sounds plausible in theory, but it is honestly a recipe for a Darwin award when handling tiny explosives (primers technically are) like ammunition for firearms. This can be difficult for many people to grasp, but consumer 3d printers are accurate, but not precision machines. This constraint of accuracy without precision is important. In the most basic explanation, the movements of the printer begin by assuming a 0 (x) and 0 (y) position. All movements assume they are relevant to this 0,0 location and absolute. There is always variance in this 0,0 location.

If you get deep into the weeds, there are also several factors that make every 3d printer's motion system unique to where two files will never print exactly the same between two machines. It does not matter at the tolerances of most parts people share, but this is usually at least 0.1mm-0.5mm tolerances. For something like a gun, or other precision mechanism, you really need a design tolerance of 0.01mm to 0.05mm. This kind of tolerance is beyond the capability of most cheap machines and beyond the kinds of tolerances that can be shared in files with other people and have any kind of relevance. The reason this matters is because the printed parts need to interface with external toleranced parts like the steel barrel. It is very possible to print these parts, but the technique requires skill. One could start scaling a part to try and solve this issue. However, in almost all cases, the X Y and Z axis will have different tolerance ranges that need to be accounted for in the design.

The actual functional way to do this requires designing your own parts. Most people that are sharing stuff like gun prints are really just showing off their chops. A fool might try and just print the stuff, but fools rarely get very far on their own. I might take such a file as a baseline to further play around with in design, but I am far more likely to place the part in FreeCAD and use it as a visual reference only while I rebuild the item from scratch. I can easily dial in 0.01mm tolerances, but I do so in reverse. I print many unit tests and adjust my design measurements until the test prints match my real world measurements. I've spent thousands of hours in CAD learning to design well. I can easily design something like a functioning gun. I do not support others doing so or showing off such content because I think it is irresponsible. This is why the general community consensus, and I banned (real) gun related content from [email protected]. I love functional printing and design at these levels, but the subject of guns is not conducive for a healthy general 3d printing community. Not to mention, it is the kind of thing some foolish kid might try without a full understanding of design, and accuracy versus precision.

Systems like a CNC mill use absolute position motion systems. With these, there is no assumed relative position; if the motion command fails to produce the specified movement there is direct feedback and error handling. Closed loop linear motion systems are far more expensive and/or difficult to realize. These are the basis of any real concern. The ability to print something truly robust enough to function like a gun is a matter of quite skilled learning and practice in the real world.

 
 

I never did fit it into the final enclosure despite ridiculous plans that were almost as overcomplicated as my etch mask art.

 

Printed button details for good engagement and function are hard. Didn't have an ideal wiring multi conductor available. Solid proje is maturing well with 2 years of dust.

 

Edit: made it [email protected]

I don't mean work in progress stuff. I mean a place of glory for the unshareable, the embarrassments, the failures, the projects you shelved years ago but won't restart or let go of entirely; preferably with a humorous meme twist or mascot. Am I the only one that would find this therapeutic and interesting? Ideas?

 

Why YSK is because this is where my ultra detailed intuitive perspective shines and I can tell you how to generate revenue on demand using eBay the old school way that still works.

This was a reply to someone a few days ago about how to sell a large gaming collection. That post was deleted, but this info was popular, so here it is as a post that will stay up.

I ran high end bicycle consignment on eBay professionally. It was a side thing when I was a Buyer for a bike shop chain, and what I did part time for nearly 2 years after disability. In total I sold $139k on that account.

You must be established on eBay in the first place. You need an account with at least 60-100 feedback first. Make purchases to get some of that, sell a few low value (to you) items at a really good deal for others and across different categories. You're trying to show that you are a real person and imply your country of origin. Ship everything you sell the same day that payment clears, and get a receipt from the logistics handler every time.

When you package any item, take a picture of the item in the box, and keep a scale on your packaging table to take a picture of the boxed item with the weight on camera after sealing the box. You are going to have 5-10% of customers that are scammers. This combo will save you from their scams. You can use the imaged weight and shipping weight from the logistics carrier receipt to dispute the photo of empty packaging scam.

Shipping insurance is a complete waste of money. The most expensive thing I sold was a $14,900 Felt IA FRD without the Zipp wheels for $9600 on eBay after 1 season of use. That was a major outlier. Most bikes were $1k-$3k, but I was dealing with some pricey stuff that represented substantial risk. I had to deal with major issues a few times despite using better shipping practices than anyone else I have ever encountered. If you own the merch, you own the risk. I didn't have that luxury. I developed the strategy of finding the advertised cost of the cheapest insurance option I had available and I paid this amount of the sale into my insurance account separately. That account went negative once near the beginning, but stayed about even with incidental drains occasionally. The hassle and time it takes to go in circles with the third party shipping insurance companies is the intentional obfuscation built into their scam. You will be able to recover any lost amount simply by working a minimum wage job for the same amount of time it will take you to get money out of these scammers. You could probably panhandle the amount quicker than the amount of time you will spend trying to get them to pay.

It will be nearly impossible for you to keep track of all of the fees and costs of eBay. I tracked everything as fees; taxes, logistics, insurance, supplies, everything. In could not close monthly books until 3-4 months after the sale. The total cost to actually sell items was 39% of the total sale as of April of 2017 with an account in perfect standing ~98% of the time. The lowest I ever got was 37% in a month and never topped 40%.

When you post items, have them boxed in advance and post the last picture of the item boxed. Add a unique number to this box, have it in the picture, and add it in the description of the item so that you know what is in each box to match with the purchase. Don't count on your descriptions or listing. Don't package whatever sold in the last few days after the listing is ended. You WILL screw this up and send the wrong things to the wrong people or forget something no matter how diligent you try to be. It is much better to have a label that prints and includes the listing details with the unique number matching the box; like today I sold: "K4R3N," "IAN123," and "JK1337," and must match these values to boxes that say the same. Like, if you are selling video games, do not do: Brombus Brzezinski bought Final Fantasy VII Special Edition (6/10), Bambi Blowater bought Final Fantasy VIII Special Remastered Edition (7/10), and Blumbus Bluewaters bought Final Fantasy VII (7/10). If you package what sells after the fact, you'll be slow and when problems with logistics happen your delay is only going to make the problems much worse. It does not matter that you have x days to ship items in the system or described in your listing. Ship it the same day that payment clears as a point of pride. When you have real problems, that is the only time to use your shipping window. This is the only way you can keep an account in prefect shape long term.

The price others list items at is a joke. Ignore this nonsense and only look at the sold history for items in the last 60 days. If you can provide better information and images than anyone else in this sold history, you are likely worth 10-15% more than the rest. Keeping a listing up costs money and is a loss that must be accounted for.

Low demand items without substantial sold history are worth less in this market. Emotional attachment is worthless, sold history is everything.

This is the key to doing well with generating revenue on demand: eBay has the most traffic of customers willing to make purchases on Sunday evenings between 9-11pm Eastern time as this will bridge the entire continental USA so that it is 5-8pm in California. The trick is to list your items with ten day auctions and time your listings so that they end in this time window on Sunday. In other words, you schedule ten day auctions that start Thursday evening in this time slot. Stagger your listings around 10-15 minutes apart so that a person can bid on and watch multiple items. Now, this is where the real hack happens and the details matter. You list these items to start for $0.99 with free shipping if possible, and with no reserve. This is not optional. Your conservative fear and desire to list the starting price higher will kill traffic interest and volume of initial views. The item must have an active sold history for this to work. An active sold history means there is demand. The initial traffic of a real no reserve auction on eBay will max out your visibility priority for suggested and relevant cross posts. This is more powerful of a tool than any other form of promotion. You're going to get a several messages from all the crazy stupid people that want you to take their special offer of $2 to end the item. You love this stupidity because these idiots flock to this kind of fantasy listing in droves and are the reason this trick is so effective in the first place. Be nice to them and they'll view the listing hundreds of times. A few might even go crazy with a sub $5 bidding war, which is even better for the listing visibility. I did this with $1k-$4k bikes all the time. I almost always set the max sold history value for similar items, but I also did detailed listings unlike anyone has ever done before or since with high end bikes on eBay. I documented every scratch, bearing, and part, along with detailed wear descriptions where I was downright negative by typical salesperson standards. I also used my automotive painting background to photograph cosmetic issues before and after I did minor touchups and fixes to really high end stuff. You must think like a skeptical buyer that is afraid of getting scammed when you're creating listings and reassure them in a way that would satisfy yourself. Like prove that your games actually work in pictures, etc. There is only a minor element of sales pitch to tell what the item is and its intended use. The majority of your listing should be about telling the informed buyer every detail they are not even aware of questioning and gives them confidence to take the listing serious.

Only start your no reserve auctions to end on a Sunday that follows the 15th of the month, and only when there is not a holiday or major sporting event in the USA. People pay rent/mortgages on the 1st of the month. The largest pool of people with excess funds to spend a little more or get carried away with bidding are the people on the Sunday after the 15th of any given month. Never list items that are competing with themselves in auctions that are ending on the same night. Make your listings Buy it Now for a good price in the interm then convert these to no reserve auctions when you're ready. Avoid giving any excuses that might indicate the person can procrastinate and get the same thing later or for a better price like mentioning you have more of these, or even listing the same item in another listing with Buy it Now while an auction runs.

Overall, this is how you dominate eBay and get your stuff in front of the most people, most often, and that is how you make sales conversions. No matter what you do, you're going to have overburden that will not sell in any single market. This is why I was the Buyer for a bike shop chain that ran eBay and did swap meets too. Pick a number and and strategy for handling this. Like when you have sold $xx,xxx amount you're giving the rest away to N and quitting. You will never experience a day when the last item sells.

Last thing I didn't mention before, if eBay still has 1:1 images in the primary scrolling feed, absolutely make sure to photograph your leading image to make it as large as possible and fill the entire frame. Use a white infinite background or a low light studio photography setup. The background needs to be either 0x00 white or 0xff black, and the item itself needs to look real like it is not a stock photography image. The other images should be professional looking, but can be more flawed. The lead image should be edited using gimp with filters for contrast and saturation to make the thing pretty.

 

Under the Third Geneva Convention, prisoners of war (POW) must be:

  • Treated humanely with respect for their persons and their honour
  • Able to inform their next of kin and the International Committee of the Red Cross of their capture Allowed to communicate regularly with relatives and receive packages
  • Given adequate food, clothing, housing, and medical attention
  • Paid for work done and not forced to do work that is dangerous, unhealthy, or degrading
  • Released quickly after conflicts end
  • Not compelled to give any information except for name, age, rank, and service number

Just a thought. I'd rather be a POW than a homeless disabled person in the USA. I'd have more rights, respect, better support, and better care.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prisoner_of_war

 

Something feels different about people's reactions to an OP in comments IMO. It is not always a thing, but more of a broad pattern. How do you personally view this? Do you see it too? Do you have some clear picture in mind as to why this difference exists? I have a few ideas, but don't want to taint your takes on the subject.

 

Science is "empirically complete" when it is well funded, all unknowns are constrained in scope, and (n+1) generations of scientists produce no breakthroughs of any kind.

If a hypothetical entity could encompass every aspect of science into reasoning and ground that understanding in every aspect of the events in question, free from bias, what is this epistemological theory?

I've been reading wiki articles on epistemology all afternoon and feel no closer to the answer in the word salad in this space. It appears my favorite LLM's responses reflect a similar understanding. Maybe someone here has a better grasp on the subject?

7
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
  • interregnum - the time between two reigns, governments
  • hemimillenial - half millennium; every 500 years (took me a min. hemi- as in hemisphere/not in most dictionaries/from Asimov's Foundation's Edge ch1)
  • lemmatization - in linguistics is the process of grouping together inflected forms of a word so they can be analyzed as a single item, identified by the word's lemma, or dictionary form; (eg. walk [lemma], walks, walked, walking)
 

Is there some intuitive menu mode that is simple to initiate? The packaged setup with dnf on F40 only has the colon help menu enabled. I don't care about mouse Luddites or the remarkableness of people with total recall. I need something like gedit level tools to just work without Planck scale resolution help, or learning career to make a useful hobby tool that is free from stalkerware nonsense like an electron based IDE.

 

This is something that perplexed me a few years ago with Flash Forth on a PIC18/PIC24/Arduino Uno. I was using the Python serial emulator S-Term because it is simple in the source code and worked. I really wanted a way to load more structured Words into the FF dictionary with bookmarks in a way that made sense structurally. That lead to a desire to execute code from the uC on the host system, but I never wrapped my head around how to do this in practice.

As a random simple example, let's say I set up an interrupt based on the internal temperature sensor of the PIC18. Once triggered the uC must call a Python script on the host system and this script defines a new FF word on the uC by defining the Word in the interpreter.

How do you connect these dots to make this work at the simplest 'hello world' level? I tried modifying S-Term at one point, but I didn't get anywhere useful with my efforts.

 

This is a deep meta question; not the response you give others. When you ask yourself, "how do I feel," is that answer you synthesize, the answer you draw from the edge of your conscious and unconscious self; is this answer a reference to the immediately preceding past of your inner experience, or is the answer from some self aware inner entity that exists in the ever changing experience of right now?

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