this post was submitted on 01 Apr 2025
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Mechanical Keyboards

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I've had a ROG Azoth (don't judge) keyboard for about a year now. Been using it for both programming and gaming, and I really like it, but there are a few issues (software being the obvious one). So I've decided it's time to put together my own keyboard. I started watching some YouTube and yeah.... I'm out of my depth here.

So I was wondering if maybe people could share things they wish they knew when starting out so I don't mess up to badly.

I've already found this switch tester which I figured would give me a general idea of what kind of switches might be for me. Other than that, I'm not really sure how to proceed πŸ˜….

I'm not interesting in doing any soldering.

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[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 hours ago

Go to a meet up if you can and try out different boards, switches, key cap profiles, talk to owners etc. before you spend any significant sums. Impact of key cap profile and materials is often underrated.

If you cant then switch testers and "cheap" 3d printed or acrylic boards are a decent way to try different layouts, especially if you can sell them once you finished with them. Sure you can skip this step if you know the exact layout you want, but I didn't.

Learn what types of switches you prefer, if you like them lubed, filmed, ball bearing mod, stem swapped, etc. is worth the effort. As is getting good at stabs.

I think another fundamental is deciding if you are one and done or you will keep buying boards. Buying keyboards then building them is the hobby for me, I have loads, more than 50. If its the former then you want to spend longer nailing down what you want, the latter it doesn't matter so much.

Its snobby but mass market boards are ok, just ok. I would much rather have something more premium, with a bit more thought around it. It is more risk than buying from your average shop though, and you need to do proper research into the GB runner, even then they can exit scam (ask me how I know).

Being able to decide everything you want for a board, mounting style, plate material (or even no plate), switches, how they lubed, if they filmed, what stabs you use, what keycaps, all make fundamental differences to a boards sound and behavior. Getting that how you want it can take time.

[–] WolfLink 2 points 22 hours ago

I looked into building my own keyboard, and then realized there are some excellent hobbyist tier keyboards that are 99% of what I would have wanted from building myself for like 30% of the cost.

I’m using the Hexgears Gemini Dawn right now, and I’m quite happy with it, but if I were to get a new one today I might go with something that supports QMK like the Massdrop CTRL.

The main 2 features I look for are hot-swappable switches and programmable firmware. Personally I like an aluminum frame and look for that as well.

You’ll pay about $100 for a prebuilt vs like $500 for building it yourself

[–] [email protected] 7 points 2 days ago (2 children)

My keyboard has a few modes of backlight. Most of them are crazy shit without any purpose. I can't disable them programmatically as their shitty shitware doesn't work under Linux. So after every reset/turn-on I cyclically run through those blimping abominations of backlight modes.

I miss old IBM or Mitsumi keyboards that were just keyboards.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Oh, that's a good thing to look out for when investigating possible purchases. My Azoth screen goes on at 100% every time I start it, so I have to go through the menu to disable it. Got old real quick.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

You might like WASD Keyboards. They’re super minimal and chunky. You can even get blank/custom key caps as a factory option.

Edit: Just checked and apparently they are no more 😭 Damn. One of the better ones, too.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Nooooo! I Love my code. Feels like it was just yesterday I got it.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago

Got mine in 2016 myself and still kicking

My coworkers hate when they end up having to do something on my computer. I wonder why…

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

@alehel I wish I would have been bolder, chosing a smaller size. I took me 3 or 4 boards to realize how cozy a 60% board can be, if you configure it right.
Also, having opensource keyboard firmware like QMK is vital for longterm support as well as being able to freely configure layers and other stuff.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Yeah, I'm currently spending a lot of time debating sizes in my head. I'm pretty sure at this point that 65% is what I want.

Wasn't familier with QMK, so that's a good tip. Do applied settings get remembered by the keyboard? That's my biggest issue with the Azoth, it forgets keybindings when there's a different computer connected.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

There are well known and respected brands for keyboard bases, switches and caps. Combining those should yield fine mechanical keyboards with a satisfying level of customization.

I personally am very happy with my combo of Glorious GMMK base, Glorious Fox Heavy switches and Cerakey ceramic keycaps. I ordered some other switches with even more resistance and since compatibility is high for all widely popular components, replacing them should not be an issue.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Ceramic key caps? I didn't know that was a thing. What would you say the benefit is?

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I honestly don't know why they are not more popular. They feel amazing to the touch, look stunning and give a deep, rich sound. The white ones also diffuse RGB lighting beautifully.

They are quite heavy, though, I would definitely recommend switches with high resistance.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Ok, now I want ceramics....

I have a feeling I'm going to end up with more than one keyboard.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 14 hours ago

If you are interested, there are a few you tubers who do a rundown on ceramic keycaps.

Random Frank P and Hipyo both have reviews of them when they first came out.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Ok, so you said put together your own keyboard, that involves soldering. However it's very likely you don't need to.

Finding which switches you like is a good first step, as a general rule I think there's only 3 types of switches you should worry about, let's call them Red, Brown and Blue since that's the colors Cherry MX uses for them so they're sort of the standard. Red are fully linear, i.e. they feel the same from start to bottom. Browns have a small bump midway through (when the switch activates). Blues are like Browns but they also make a click sound. Only choose colicky switches if you have a room for yourself, they can be VERY annoying to other people, be considerate. That being said it's personal preference, I personally like Browns although I have used Reds and honestly I don't feel that much of a difference.

Next important is figuring out the size you want, do you plan on moving it a lot? If so a smaller form size might be better.

Then there are some ergonomics, personally I love Split ortholinear keyboards, you can buy premade ones but for me it was cheaper to build one for myself, but I'm okay with soldering. That being said if you're going to solder, I STRONGLY recommend you get a nice modern USB-C pen style soldering iron, I bought a cheap one from Amazon and it was very difficult to use, didn't heated up properly and had a very large tip (the small one never got hot enough to melt the solder).

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Yeah, build was not the right term I see. If one buys a "base set", switches, key caps, and puts them together, what would one call that?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

That base set is what's the problem, I don't think places sell that, they might either sell you an assembled keyboard, or the PCB and connectors for you to solder and add your controller, switches, key caps, etc.

Honestly look for something preassembled in the form factor you want with hot swappable switches. For example my old keyboard was a RedDragon k530 with brown switches is an excellent 60% model that you can get with your preferred switches and if you want to change them in the future (I for example changed mine for some silent ones, plus added some padding and o-rings to make it extra quiet).

If you want split ortholineal keyboards the Moonlander is a great choice, although I never got one because they're too expensive and shipping is not great to Europe. Personally I quite enjoyed soldering my own crkbd kit, but I know it's not for everyone.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Ah, gotcha. I'll have to read the product descriptions more thoroughly!

Thanks!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Thankfully when I first got into mechanical keyboards the flood of the cheap slop hadn't happened. So like worst keyboard you'd find is like a sturdy plastic housing with a metal backplate.

Switch tester to find what you like. Then buy once cry once. Don't get gamer garbage, find one that works out of the box the way you want. Maybe QMK so you can program it once to do what you want, then you never need the software ever again.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

QMK is definitely on my requirement list after having read about it.

My biggest job right now is figuring out who is quality and who is slop. There's so many brands out there now.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 23 hours ago

Good news is that QMK isn't typically on garbage (yet) so filtering by has QMK first helps a lot.