this post was submitted on 06 Jan 2025
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3D Printing is Fun! (lemmy.world)
submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Fourth try on a print. Tried to add some adhesive to the bed to get it to stick better. Watched the first two layers and went to bed. Woke up to a printer on strike.

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[–] [email protected] 46 points 2 weeks ago (6 children)

As a seethingly jealous ender 3 peasant who is still spending most of his time keeping my printer working with kludges and duct tape; it's nice to know Bambu owners are human after all and still run into problems.

Hope you get it sorted and are back printing soon! 🖖

[–] [email protected] 8 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

Manged to get an ender 3V2 a few years ago, auto bed levelling is a must have feature if you intend to spend more time using your printer than calibrating or fixing it. After that masking tape fixes all adhesion problems.

[–] WolfLink 5 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I eventually turned off auto bed leveling because it just doesn’t help much. You still have to manually level the bed, and the correction it adds is kinda negligible. At least the BL Touch does help with the manual leveling process.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

@WolfLink @CheeseNoodle I have and Ender 3 S1. On my old CR10 I had similar opinion to you on the bl touch. Since I upgraded the firmware on the Ender some of the new bed leveling stuff has been a handbags. I couldn't do without it now. Huge reduction in faff.

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[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

I must have been lucky with my Ender 3 - I only leveled it every few weeks or less. Very solid printer, had it 5 years.

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[–] [email protected] 8 points 2 weeks ago

Haha, my ender is printing at 20mm/s to avoid slippage, with the bed scraper jammed into to filament guide to make it actually grab and feed, and at 105% extrusion, but it's still chugging along. After a few restarts to get the fan spinning, that it.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

I feel you - I ran an Ender 3 for 5 years but now I have an A1 and honestly don't miss all the endless tinkering. Learned a hell of a lot in the process. No complaints about the Ender, it was a rock solid machine - now it has a new life as a laser engraver, courtesy of the Creality 1.6w laser attachment which works nice.

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[–] [email protected] 27 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I've had 3 blobs over the years, all caused by an otherwise benign issue turned into that because filament got caught in a silicon sock.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 2 weeks ago

I mean putting a lot of sticky stuff in a sock will usually do that.

[–] [email protected] 21 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I've been doing 3D printing regularly for a decade or so now... Never had a blob.

[–] [email protected] 41 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

I've been printing for two weeks, and I had one.

[–] [email protected] 8 points 2 weeks ago

Apparently the A1 mini is supposed to have a mode to detect this a You just have to enable it.

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[–] [email protected] 20 points 2 weeks ago

I don't think it's supposed to do that

[–] [email protected] 11 points 2 weeks ago

that looks like delicious taffy. like an abba zaba

[–] Kanzar 10 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

Nozzle not seated properly?

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 weeks ago

or no nozzle?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

I just had this happen too and it was caused by a bad z-offset reading. The nozzle hooked one of the parts on the bed that came loose and drug it around while forming the blob.

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[–] [email protected] 8 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

If you use OctoPrint you can get plugins that use a camera to watch for failed prints like stinging etc and it will stop the print if it fails.

I forget the name of the plugins right now. I went to say “Dr” something.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

It used to be Spaghetti Detective, but they wanted to be trendy so it's "Obico" I think now lol

[–] [email protected] 6 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Thanks for adding the extra detail.

I have since noticed OP has only been printing two weeks so perhaps they don’t want to go down this route just yet, but it is another fun project and they will need to print some things to hold the web cam etc so could be something to focus on.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (2 children)

Yeah, it's not bad! If it's got a good clean view it can tell you when things start to look a little sus before disaster strikes haha.

It's even self-hostable, and a modest dedicated graphics card can be used to run the LLM completely locally. I haven't been able to get that running on my server yet though. (Nvidia drivers. Agh)

Otherwise they're pretty "freemium", which is understandable.

I've been out of the game lately though. :)

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago (4 children)

Thanks for this.

I have been out of the game for a bit too. Saving for a Bambu Labs printer as I spend more time levelling my Ender than printing 😂

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

This was what most annoyed me on my Ender 3. Now with a bambu A1 its fire-and-forget. And no failed prints yet, with daily use.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

That’s great to hear! I see a lot of positivity for the Bambu printers.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

Yes. These are great machines. Please know, though, that p.e. the camera does inexplicably not work in LAN only mode (i.e. when not connected to the bambu cloud service), and that the AMS lite cannot fit every filament spool in the world due to its construction. First can be remedied with a separate webcam in your LAN, second with printed adaptors, alternative spools or just some squishy material (if the spool's too big). I found that spools from dasfilament and recent ones from sunlu fit ok.

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[–] [email protected] 7 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

I had this happen. Pop the whole hotend in the oven on the warm/hold setting for a bit and it should come off fairly easily.

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[–] [email protected] 6 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

I've run into adhesion problems when the room gets colder.

works 99% of the time, but when ambient temp goes below 70°F everything starts failing.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Interesting. All of my prints that failed were running overnight when the temperature dropped.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago (4 children)

What temps are you running your bed at?

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[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Yeah, in some parts of the world, a box surrounding the printer isn't really a luxury.

Haven't had problems since I upgraded.

Controlling temperature is important on FDM.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

I've a massive blob like this one time when the nozzle got clogged and the extruder created enough pressure to push the filament through the threads of the hotend block. It was on an Anet A8 and I ripped a lead off the thermistor trying to get the plastic off so I ended up replacing the entire hotend.

You can try to heat up the hotend to a fair bit under the melting point of the filament to where it's soft and somewhat pliable but not runny or sticky and then trying to peel it off. Though you'd risk damaging any leads to the thermistor, heater, or your hands if you're not careful.

Good luck on fixing the printer and getting back to printing again. 3D printing is a really time consuming hobby

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

Thanks. I am really frustrated with myself for letting this happen. Pulled everything apart and recovered most of everything, but managed to damage the clip that holds the extruder in place, so now I get to learn how to do surgery and replace the entire assembly. I wish I had gotten a bit more time before having to do a major repair...

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

It's a learning experience. Is your nozzle torqued to spec? Only time I've seen something like this is when the heatbreak/nozzle weren't set correctly on a v6 hotend, and even then it just oozed down, didn't consume the entire heatsink. I kept that in my box of learning lol, swapped everything to hotends that are secured so they don't spin freely after that, was petg so it degraded in the heat and was such a pain in the ass to remove from set screws, was ok writing it off.

Bed adhesion is often caused by surface cleanliness in my experience, some setting will influence it but you're going to chase problems if your surface has residual oils, some surfaces are more sensitive to it but even the oils in your fingerprints can cause a loss of adhesion. Light dish soap and water is the general recommendation for a degreaser but be aware that this will damage some surfaces, I've got some that explicitly want only 99% IPA and another that only wants a clean microfibre cloth.

Drafts can cause an issue too, seen some abs fail becauae I didn't have the enclosure latched properly and the doors worked their way open with vibrations from printing, I keep mine in my garage and live in Canada, enclosures are a must for me.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)
[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago

Hey, ummm... I think I see the problem. Your printer has diarrhea

[–] anguo 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I don't see a beginning of a print anywhere, did it not even manage to do the first layer?

If that's the case, a word of advice to always be present for the first 2 layers of your prints, at least for the longer ones.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 weeks ago

I didn't take the photo immediately - tried cleaning a bit before it occurred to me to document it.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

Atleast it didnt get wedged in the heat sink... Thats what happeneed to my last blob, had to replace the entire hot end.

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