eco_game

joined 1 year ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] [email protected] 13 points 4 hours ago (1 children)

What worked for me at my old school was using a ShadowSocks proxy. Basically what this does, is it takes all your traffic and just makes it look like random https traffic (AFAIK).

I believe multiple VPNs support this, for me with PIA VPN it's in the settings under the name "Multi-Hop" (PIA only supports this on the Desktop App, not on mobile).

This technique is pretty much impossible to block, unless you ban every single VPN ShadowSocks Proxy IP. If that is the case for you (chances are practically 0), you could also selfhost ShadowSocks in combination with the Cloak module, however this method is a lot more complicated.

[–] [email protected] 10 points 3 days ago (4 children)

What's the issue with PIA? I've used it for quite a while and am quite happy with it.

The choice that surprised me was them recommending 1Password ($40/year) over Bitwarden ($10/year, solid free plan).

[–] [email protected] 2 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago)

The user reported events don't directly affect routing AFAIK.

I share your experience though, no problems for me yet. Their FAQ ~~heavily~~ mentions that you should contact them in case any of the data is wrong.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 days ago

Welp I will once again try for Hogwarts Legacy.

As for a meme, this isn't mine and it's kinda old but it really managed to stick in my head:

Thank You very much for this giveaway and your work moderating this community!

[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

From reading the Magic Earth FAQ, I believe the user data actually isn't used for traffic at all (at least the manually reported events certainly aren't).

Edit: never mind I missed a later part in the FAQ:

Do you share data with third parties?

We send position data to our traffic provider to generate real-time traffic information. The data is anonymized on the phone, using a changing key (so it's not linked to you), and it is deleted after 5 minutes.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Source, Settings and Quick Settings are buttons I find myself using quite often. Also the numbers do come in handy every now and again, as someone who still occasionally watches live TV.

Now the Samsung remote does have an "Extra" button, but last time I tried using that on a friends TV it told me "this functionality is unavailable". After 3 minutes of searching, I finally gave up on setting the TV to Game Mode and instead just lived with the input lag.

[–] [email protected] 8 points 1 week ago

The fact you have to watch out for a physical volume knob nowadays is wild. Imo the shitty implementation winner is by far Renault with the ZE50 EV. Its radio has a permanent volume touch button, which opens a new view with touch buttons for volume up and down.

Whichever Renault engineer or executive thought that this was a good idea in any way, shape or form deserves many punches to the face. Apparently later models now have permanent touch buttons for volume up and down, which I guess is at least slightly better (although still horribly inferior to a knob).

It's worth noting that there are steering wheel volume buttons for the driver, but it's still horrible and sucks for passengers.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Dude I have such a hate for the "new" Samsung Smart TV remote. They literally took away all but the BARE essential buttons. And for what ??????? Does the remote look cool and sleek now? Maybe? But I can't fucking use it anymore.

Meanwhile LG is being a chad: they keep all the buttons, but additionally give me a super cool and convenient pointer (LG remote for comparison).

[–] [email protected] 11 points 1 week ago (1 children)

The first quote is taken out of context:

Not only are privacy and data protection founding principles for both Mobifree and F-Droid, the use of tracking-based in-app advertising poses a moral dilemma as well. If someone wants to gain access to an app, but does not have the financial means to purchase it, they can use it at a different kind of price - their user data.

For me this reads as them explaining and condemning that dilemma, instead of considering it as an option for F-Droid.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 weeks ago

This, I use a normal helmet in summer and my skihelmet in winter (although I originally got it for skiing).

[–] [email protected] 9 points 2 weeks ago

Yes definitely, here's my Steam 'Local Multiplayer' collection:

Nintendo also has some great couch co-op games,for example:

  • Mario Kart 8 Deluxe
  • Super Smash Bros. Ultimate
  • Nintendo Switch Sports
  • Super Mario Party

I also very much agree with the other commenter here, it's such a shame that couch co-op is dying. The only ones still believing in it seem to be Nintendo.

Another game that's fun to play is Unravel 2, but for me the Steam version had all sorts of problems so I ultimately ended up refunding it again.

[–] [email protected] 11 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

If the main battery isn't "meant to be replaced", it will often act as the CMOS battery (e.g. MacBooks have been doing this since roughly 2008).

19
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a driving journal app, to track when, to/from where and which distance I drive.

Ideally I'd like for it to be FOSS, but if there are decent Closed Source apps I'm ok with it too (I'd just block Network Access in Graphene OS then).

This post (not mine) has pretty much my ideal criteria, but sadly didn't get any answers: https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/88349/drivers-logbook-app-for-android-foss

Unlike the above post, I don't want this for tax purposes etc., but rather just to understand where all my distance driven comes from.

Edit: I've done some more research and haven't found anything, for now I'll just use an OnlyOffice spreadsheet. If I find the time, I might try developing an app for this at some point.

Edit 2: After developing my app for a week and then showing it to a friend, he instantly found exactly what I was working on...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.liefers.driverslogpro

31
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I very recently bought a used Pixel 6 with a replacement screen, not thinking too much of it. I even made sure that the screen looked good during pickup.

One thing I missed though, was that apparently my Pixel doesn't have a fingerprint sensor anymore. I did some research, apparently it's quite easy to break the fingerprint sensor (or some places simply just don't include a sensor in the repair?) when replacing the screen.

Today I also noticed (through Show refresh rate in developer options) that my screen will only do 60 Hz as well.

Also I have stupidly high battery drain, I'm not 100% if that's related though.

Long story short, learn from my mistakes and either don't buy a used phone with a replacement screen or carefully test all functionalities associated with the screen, mainly high refresh rate and the fingerprint sensor.

4
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

As the Oculus store is officially dead, it may be a bit harder to come by Gear VR apps and games. This website (the gearvr.net vault) aims to provide an archive of many Gear VR apps.

 

If you have a Galaxy S10 (or S10e / S10+) with Android 12, it won't work with Gear VR. There is a small chance that you're still able to downgrade to Android 11, but sadly it's very unlikely.

To check if your device can be downgraded, find its BIT / BINARY value.

From my research looking at the ROMs on samfw.com, it seems that your BIT has to be E or lower. In other words, if your S10 has been updated in any way since May 2022, it will have a too high BIT value to downgrade to Android 11.

 
 

Even though the Oculus Login doesn't work anymore, you can still use and "initialiize" Gear VR in 2024.

Prerequisites:

  • a phone capable of Gear VR and a matching Gear VR HMD (Compatibility Guide)
  • your phone has to running Android 11 or below
  • (a working internet connection)

Guide:

Start by inserting your phone into your Gear VR. It should launch first time setup and prompt you to take it out again. Go through the first time setup and let it download all the necessary Oculus services.

After downloading, you should get prompted to login. From my attempts there isn't really a way to login, unless you have certain legacy accounts linked to a Meta account properly. But don't worry - there's another way.

Go into your phone settings -> apps -> Gear VR Service -> Storage -> Manage Storage. Now tap "VR Service Version" multiple times, until you get a message telling you that Developer mode is now enabled.

You should now see the following settings:

  1. Developer mode
  2. Add icon to app list
  3. Allow VR API without OSIG
  4. Mirroring mode

If they aren't enabled already, enable the second and third settings. You should now see "Gear VR Service" in your app drawer. You can use this to launch any installed Gear VR app. Simply install APKs and the apps will show up here.

To launch an app, select it in the Gear VR Service app, and you should be prompted to insert your phone into your Gear VR.

As you aren't logged into Oculus, Oculus Home won't work properly. This means you will have to take your phone out of your Gear VR to switch apps.

 

One of my first hurdles with Gear VR was trying to cast my (Pop! OS) laptop screen to my Gear. There are some low latency solutions using a proprietary Nvidia app or Moonlight, but as the S7 in my Gear VR isn't capable of running non-VR apps in VR, that was a no go.

The solution is very simple. As long as your computer and Gear VR phone are on the same network (also works if your laptop is on your phone's hotspot or vice versa), you can use the FOSS software Deskreen on your computer (Mac, Windows, Linux) to stream your screen to other network devices.

After installing Deskreen, simply open the Oculus Browser on your phone (for me on my S7 it doesn't work with Samsung Internet) and navigate to the URL given to you by Deskreen. After then accepting the connection on your PC, you can fullscreen the stream on your Gear VR.

Done! Now you have a reasonably low-latency stream of your computer in your Gear VR.

 

I recently got a Samsung Gear VR and noticed that even though there is a moderately sized subreddit for it, it doesn't have a lemmy presence, so I decided to fix that:

Gear VR

[email protected] https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/gearvr

The community is for anything regarding Gear VR, be it asking questions, guides for making stuff work, maybe showing off a good deal you got, ...

3
First post (discuss.tchncs.de)
 

Hello fellow Gear VR enthusiasts,

I recently found a very cheap used Gear VR (SM-R322), and as I had an S7 sitting in a drawer collecting dust, I thought I'd try it out.

Even though it's been discontinued for over 3 years, the platform is still surprisingly usable. The only major drawback is that you can't login to the Oculus app anymore, which means (at least according to my current research) you need to take the phone out of the Gear VR whenever you want to switch apps. (As Oculus Home doesn't work without being logged in).

During my search for stuff to do with Gear VR, I noticed that it has a decently sized subreddit, but no lemmy presence, so I decided to fix that!

If you have questions about the platform, want to show off a cheap find, or anything else, feel free to post here!

18
submitted 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I'm trying to find a way to stream my monitor to Apple TVs in my school via AirPlay. I've already done some research and it seems like there are currently no software solutions, with the closest one being openairplay, however it seems to be pretty dead.

I "need" AirPlay, as my school only uses Apple TVs, and it's quite inconvenient to always bring my HDMI cable and have to hook up to projectors that way.

I'm also open to more scuffed solutions, as I won't be going to that school for much longer. Some things I have thought of so far are:

  1. Using my old iPhone 6 (maybe jailbreak it, I don't think that matters here though) and something like deskreen to first cast my laptop screen to the iPhone and then AirPlay from there. I'd expect this to work, but it wouldn't be much less cumbersome than just using HDMI directly, and it would also mean having to carry that iPhone and a charging cable for it with me all the time.
  2. Using a Mac OS virtual machine with something like OSX-KVM, then possibly buying a WiFi card with AirPlay support and passing it through to the VM in combination with a similar deskreen solution as in 1. This also seems pretty complicated, and I'm not even sure if it would work at all.

Does anyone here have any experience with this, know of any better solutions (I'm also open to more scuffed solutions), or maybe even tried one of my scuffed methods already?

26
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

This isn't a question but rather a solution to a problem I couldn't find anywhere online, apologies if this is the wrong community.


If you have a Lenovo laptop (in my case a T14 thinkpad) and your display dims after about 30 seconds, no matter what you specify in Windows settings, you might have to disable the "Zero-Touch-Lock". You can do this in the Lenovo Vantage Software (in my case called "Lenovo Commercial Vantage") in the menu "Smart Assist".

view more: next ›