_thebrain_

joined 2 years ago
[–] _thebrain_ 19 points 19 hours ago (2 children)

Airvpn can generate a pure wireguard (or openvpn) config. No vendor specific GUI needed. I have several boxes using it and have had zero issues. Plus their support is awesome.

[–] _thebrain_ 2 points 1 day ago

Ahh sorry. Again, I don't use an iPhone.

[–] _thebrain_ 6 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (2 children)

I don't have an iPhone but my daughter does.

For music I don't sync anything to her phone. I run a navidrome server and set up an account so she can stream whatever she wants whenever. I think she uses isub as her streaming app. It does allow you to download and cache files from the server to play if you are offline

As for sms, I don't know of any way to sync in Linux, but if you use Windows, the phone link app works, as several of my coworkers have set it up. I know it installs some piece of software on the iPhone you want to sync to, maybe you could do that and try running the phone link program with wine?

I also know kde connect has a link for iOS. It's not perfect but it will do the sms linking thing.

[–] _thebrain_ 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I don't know. I've use this method several times and I've never had a problem. I probably should have specified that I'm in the states so 450° f versus 200 or 210° c that your printer runs at isn't a huge difference. Sure. You run the risk of some fumes, but your printer is already belting the plastic. In that temperature. You need to go a lot hotter than 400° in order to set it on fire. It's a lot safer than using a blowtorch

[–] _thebrain_ 2 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

put them on a sheet of aluminum foil and put them on a cookie tray in your oven. set the oven to 450 degrees and bake it for a half hour plus. everything should melt out of it. you could even suspend it with a rolled up piece of foil under it. depending on the wires your thermistor may suffer but the heating element should be fine. tho, your thermistor probably will be okay too as it looks like it has silicone covering the wire.

[–] _thebrain_ 5 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Afaik the presidential powers to enact tariffs is limited. Congress is in charge of the budget and are the only ones allowed to set permanent tariffs. He is only getting away with what he is doing because he keeps making up phony emergency reasons why we need them, i.e. the bogus Canadian fentanyl story. The idiots in Congress have already given up so many of their duties to the executive branch it's doubtful they can recapture them. Until members of Congress decide to call him out on his bullshit he will keep getting away with it despite what any of them say publicly.... And we all know that his boot lickers will never do that.

[–] _thebrain_ 4 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I really like the orbiter 2.5. it's not as light as the nimble but it is still tiny. I like that it is open source and they really have thought to put a bunch of engineering in to the gear workings instead of just using clone bonditech gears. It cost, like, 48 USD to get from AliExpress and is definitely high quality.

Thh Hero Me mount seamed like a good choice as well. It was a huge pain in the a$$ to assemble tho, not that I am complaining. The way it mounts to the carriage means you can't just assemble and mount (at least with my old tronxy carriage plate). The included adapter design that comes in the file package didn't quite work correctly and I didn't realize that until I was all disassembled. There is a magnet mount version that would probably have been a better option. I'll probably print one to have as a spare if I ever need to disassemble the mount. Other then the mounting tho I really like the design and thought that went into it by mediaman.

 

This post is a follow up to this post here Quality issues where I was having tolerance problems with lead me to discover inconsistent extrusion in base mode.

It has been quite a ride and I used a lot of the suggestions given in the last thread, and also discovered several other problems which lead to a major rebuild/redesign of the corexy x and y axis, bed motion, and extruder. Here is what I found:

The first thing I noticed were the shafts in the x/y stepper motors appears to be bent just slightly. If I watched the pulley on the motor it appeared to wobble. I replaced both motors with some spares I had laying around from various projects. The x and y gantries both move on linear rails, and I ended up totally reprinting the carriage adapters as well.

Second, I had 4 points leveling on the bed, which I know is quite controversial. I found that the z screw coupler in one corner has become stretched out and wasn't really adjusting height correctly when I ran my 4 point script. I modified the bed so two steppers are connected in series and moved the pivot point between the 2 old pivot points. The bed moves on 4 linear rails and 4 smooth rods with z-screws between the rod and the rail. I got rid of the spring type couplers and replaced them with solid couplers. Any wobble in the screw is taken up by wobble nuts.

Third, and probably most important, I realized the zesty nimble 2 extruder was suffering plastic fatigue. If your not familiar, the zesty nimble is 85%-90% sintered nylon. There is one hobbed gear and a "breech" that holds the filament against the gear. The breech clips onto ears on the main body of the nimble. One of the ears, over time, has gotten a bit weak and the breach only consistently clips into one side causing less pressure to be put on the filament against the extension mechanism. I could have inverted the mount, reprinted it, and flipped the nimble as you can use it either left handed or right handed, and bought some time, but zestytech has gone out of business, so I decided it was time for a change. I picked up a shiny new orbiter 2.5, and printed a new hot end carriage, a hero me, and totally rebuild the print head.

I spent a couple of hours updating and doing basic tuning on the config and am much happier with the results. I still need some more tuning, need to work on wire management, and come up with a better wire support instead of the old number direct drive cable. I may eventually reuse the number as a second print head extruder but that is a ways off.

Here are some of my first prints from the new setup.

I still need a bunch more tuning: extruder stepper vref tuning, retraction, print temperature, feedrate, etc, but I feel like I am finally getting somewhere.

[–] _thebrain_ 17 points 3 weeks ago (6 children)

I guess that would succeed in killing off a bunch of the elderly and infirmed, which be a huge savings to Medicare and social Security, so it's a win-win right?

/S if it wasn't implied already

[–] _thebrain_ 3 points 1 month ago

Loops.video maybe?

[–] _thebrain_ 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Now I have to find some pineapple amaro. I don't think the sell it heirloom stuff in my state tho

[–] _thebrain_ 2 points 1 month ago (4 children)

I always just use

find | grep -i <partial file name>
[–] _thebrain_ 23 points 1 month ago

How long until we deploy troops to Russia to help in their invasion of the Ukraine?

 

I have a printer I have basically built. It is a tronxy frame (and corexy motion), but over the years I have added linear rails, a duet 3d control board, quad zscrew independent leveling, a zesty nimble extruder, and other things.

My printer was down for 6 months or so, a new kitten we got ate some wires and it took me a bit to get the motivation to rebuild it. It turned out just a couple of things got unplugged and I was quickly back in business.

Ever since starting printing again I noticed that my tolerance has been off and it seemed to be over extruding quite a bit. I tuned my steps per mm, and driver power on the extruder motor to no avail. Eventually I replaced the motor and the nozzle (which was perfectly in check but if I was going that far I figured why not). It seems to have solved the problem... Sort of.

I have been using the prusa procedure to test and tune extrusion multiplier: print a 40x40x40 cube in vase mode, and measure the wall thickness. My extrusion width is .45mm, and until today I was getting a width of .52-.54mm. the replacement parts have cured this, if I measure in the right spots with my micrometer I get .45 exactly. But I have these bands. If I measure the high spots on the bands I get the same .52+ mm.

I looked at some of my old test boxes:

I have the same bands but different patterns.

A little googling and someone suggested (for a similar problem) that belt tendon was unequal. From what I can feel my tension seems to be the same.

I'm printing a tolerance test now to see if my issues are fixed, but I only feel 50% confident. Does anyone have any advice as to what might be going wrong? My belts have been on the printer since upgrading to linear rails and could probably use changing... But hopefully someone else has an idea?

 
 
214
Sophie taking a nap (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 5 months ago by _thebrain_ to c/cat@lemmy.world
 

 
346
New gadsden flag (sh.itjust.works)
 
317
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by _thebrain_ to c/memes@lemmy.ml
 
222
Clover is a lot of kitty (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 8 months ago by _thebrain_ to c/cat@lemmy.world
 
319
Meat? (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 8 months ago by _thebrain_ to c/funny
 
 
 
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