Thank you! This helped a lot.
Now, in the pinout for my old SKR v1.4 FAN0 is "12/24v" and "2.3", while FAN1 is "GND" and "12/24v".
What are the difference between FAN0 and FAN1 port on the motherboard?
(I've had a working 3D printer for 6 days, and have no experience with anything 3D printing related, so therefore these noob questions. )
Thanks. I've already used this one.
In the config file, some pins are named like "PB0", but other have a "!" in front, like "!PB1", and other a "^", like "^PC2". What are the "!" and "^" for?
What's the difference between a "PB0" and a "PC11".
Suspected that the SKR v1.4 original motherboard died (Hotend not heating), so advanced to the SKR MINI v3 + a Raspberry PI for Klipper.
I'm looking for "printer.cfg" that matches this setup..
You fixed the pictures in messages bug and that works nicely. Now, words that has a link are invisible. The invisible link is clickable. Problem was when themed both with and without material you.. Thanks again
No stress and nothing to apologize for. Thanks for making this great app.
Not sure if only on my android phone, but in messages, all pictures are gone. Just a written link instead of showing actual pictures.
Great work BTW. Looking very nice.
Let me know if you have any questions>
I only have questions.
First things first, i probably should get control on the cables and their markings before i take out the old mainboard.
I'll start this adventure as soon as the parts arrive. Parts are still in the mail somewhere..
Thanks for offering to help me out here.
SKR MINI V3 and a Rasperry Pi 4 (for Klipper) is ordered and in the mail..
Shit, what have i done. Haha
And the "Fire and Ash" = spoiler.
I know where this is going..
Yeah, it's a pretty standard setup. The previous owner put a BLTouch on the printer but never got it to work. I've had the printer for about 2 weeks and was about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.
I'm pretty new in the 3D print business and know nothing about flashing, compiling, and all the options you can do. You recommend the SKR MINI 3.0, and i didn't know i could change the mobo to other than the original SKR V1.4. What are the benefits of changing to the SKR MINI? And, no, I'm not in the US. But I'll find it here in Norway..
And Klipper? Not heard of that either, but a fast youtube peek tells me that this too might be interesting..
Here comes the fun part.
The Biqu B1 has all it's wires to the hotend via a USB-C cable. All wires from the motherboard goes to a card in the back of the printer, and fom there is a USB-C to a card in the hotend. This card splits up to TH0, CNCFAN, CNCAN1, FAN2 and HE0. Even power to the nozzle heater goes in the USB-C.
On the old SKR v1.4, the wire labeled DCIN were connected to FAN1 (GND - 12/24v), and FAN0 were connected to FAN0 (2.3 - 12/24v).
On the new SKR MINI V3 the DCIN wire is connected to FAN1 (12/24v - PC7), and FAN0 wire to FAN0 (12/24v - PC6).
The wire DCIN is not from PSU, but gives power to the card in the hotend.
In the printer.cfg all of fan-stuff are commented out, and the only thing is:
This gives me sliders in Klipper for PC6 and PC7, and I can set FAN1 to 100%.
This should in (my) theory give power to the card in the hotend. But when i slide FAN0 in Klipper nothing happens with the fans.
When i disconnect the wires to the nozzle heater from the motherboard i now have about 24 volts on those wires, and this happens without heating the heater.
The reason for me starting this project was that one day i just got error message when heating the nozzle. First i bought a new heater, thermistor and the block they are mounted in. This did not help. So, now the motherboard is replaced and I've added a Raspberry PI with Klipper to the setup, and still no joy.