3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
I have zero experience with this, but just thinking logistically, it doesn't seem like something that will work. Wiring it up is one thing, but it's another thing entirely to add the control commands to the slicer.
I suppose you could manually pause the print, retract filament 1, swap the control cable (or wire it to a switch) to Extruder 2, and resume the print. Essentially it saves half a step in swapping filaments mid-print, but it would still be printing a single color per layer.
No experience with these but I have seen some.
Basically you have 2 extruders and push the filament based on what’s needed.
You do need to purge the melt zone and I these don’t work well with different materials (PLA in one, ABS the other) because of PLA being too hot at ABS melt temps, etc.
As for these knockoffs if it’s cheap enough maybe but I can’t imagine the heat break being too good and it seems prone to jams.