[SOLVED] I changed the IP of my Adguard yesterday and forgot to update DNS in HA. It updates just fine after I updated the DNS IP in HA. I'm guessing everything else worked outbound, despite the wrong DNS in HA, because I had the correct DNS set it in my router.

I wanted to update my HA this morning but got .

Which is a bit weird, because my HA is reachable from outside my home network via nabu casa, and all my integrations relying on internet work just fine. It can even ping outside my home network.

I'm in the same boat as this Home Assistant user / Redditor, but it looks like some of the key replies to his question have been deleted.

I moved into a house and it looks like Vivint had rewired the original security system with a 2GIG TAKE-345 wired to wireless converter (transmits on 345 MHz). Can anyone recommend a RTL-SDR dongle that's compatible with HAOS, preferably plug-and-play?

HAOS

• Core: 2024.2.5
• Supervisor: 2024.02.1
• Operating System: 12.0

I have an Aqara water leak sensor in my kitchen and weather sensor in my living room. I added them to the ZigBee network while they were in their permanent locations - heard that should help them stay connected. For some reason they keep becoming "unavailable" in Homeassistant. I've readded them four times now.

I have other ZigBee devices from other brands and haven't had any issues with them dropping. My ZigBee dongle is a Sonoff. I've never connected the Aqara devices to any Aqara app, and was also wondering if these get firmware updates. Any ideas why these two Aqara devices keep dropping?

I really like Home Assistant’s integrated shopping list, especially with the recently added wake word detection for voice control.

However, it can be a bit clunky to go find it within the companion app when you’re shopping.

So to get it to pass the wife test, I created a separate standalone app!

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/6372946

A few friends asked for me to walk through how I set up the dashboard I have in my kitchen, so I figured I'd share it here, too. Here is a barebones walkthrough with config files.

Does the processor in HA Yellow support AVX, and is it possible to use a usb Coral?

So I have setup piper on a docker container. Integration with home assistant setup and it seems to work (albeit slowly) to my HomePods.

Just thinking what use cases do people have for TTS to give me some inspiration?

So I got a bunch of these Sylvania Smart+ bluetooth mesh led strips. They are using a RF SoC IC, Telink TLSR8258F1KET32. Does anyone know of a firmware like Tasmota or ESP32Home that would work for that IC?

I saw recently that Belkin is no longer going to support Matter on their Wemos line. Is this the first rumblings of Matter failing? Anybody heard anything similar from other companies?

I used DuckDNS for ages to access Home Assistant but it was flakey. I use Google Assistant so I need external access.

Nginx was the real bastard, it made my head hurt every time I used it. So eventually I gave Cloudflared a go.

I followed a blog and managed to get it working the free, with a free domain.

Until a couple of weeks ago. It just stopped working. Thanks to a Reddit post I worked out that it was because my free domain used .ga and that was taken down because it was used by hackers and tricksters and odious people who were up to no good.

So I've bought a .com address for 5 years for around £0.65 a month through Cloudflare themselves. It was easy to set up and seems to be pretty solid, although I've only had it a couple days.

Jump to 4min in the video. Most valves I see that are automated are singular built-in units. I like that this contraption simply attaches to an existing ball valve.

Anybody know what product this is? Better yet...anybody know of a esp based product that's pre-assembled?

Any other Home Assistant users migrating over from Reddit with all the api BS that's going on? If so, what's your current project? Mine is to convert my Docker instance over to HAOS.

How can i share a dashboard so other people can easily import it and use it?

I'm in the process of selecting/purchasing/installing electric strikes. For those unfamiliar with them, it's basically a way to lock and unlock the latch itself that the door's bolt fits into.

In this way, they can work with just about any (non-deadbolt) door lock. You can even continue to use the key to open it, just in case the power's out.

I plan on having an ESP32 that will provide door closed/open status with a reed switch, and also an accelerometer inside the door itself that (experiments pending) might provide door motion telemetry while it opens and closes but also possibly door knocks and attempts to kick it in.

I have plenty of gpio pins left over. And what I'd like to do is to be able to detect the status of the door lock itself. If such a feature exists, I don't even know what to search for. I'm hoping to figure out a way to retrofit it myself. Considering that the lock is entirely mechanical, I thought that perhaps I might manage to stuff something optical into it that would be able to tell if a beam was interrupted. But I don't have a clear idea on how that might be accomplished... the lock itself can probably be disassembled and might have some room to fit very small components into it. Wiring for those will have to be threaded through the door and into the frame on the hinge side though (was planning on doing that for the accelerometers anyway).

It would only need to be able to detect locked/unlocked status so that someone could be warned, it wouldn't need to be capable of locking or unlocking.

Does anyone have any insight?

I'm currently unhappy with the glass-break sensors that are available commercially. I won't rehash my complaints here, you've probably all heard them before. I was brainstorming with a friend and not coming up with anything better idea-wise though, and he suggested the conductive paint used for rear window defrosters on automobiles.

They do sell the paint/epoxy for repair kits (hadn't heard of this til he mentioned it).

Now, I have no idea how you could retrofit this, and given the cost for new windows (even cheap stuff off the shelf at Home Depot runs about $400 each for standard sizes, custom stuff commonly runs upward of thousands each) it probably isn't cost-effective to have someone build them for you.

I think you'd have four traces which could be close to the edge of the panes or potentially even hidden by the sash and rails, maybe even having an appearance of being decorative.

There are a few assumptions here. First off, if the window cracks but doesn't break completely, would that interrupt the trace enough to be detectable? Second, that you could even have a powered device in the moving part of the window without massively over-engineering it. And finally, how long would this even last? I don't think the rear defroster in my car lasted 6 months before there were cold spots in it that didn't melt. Oh, and don't forget the double/triple pane stuff (would this go on the exterior pane, the interior, or both?).

Also it's quite a few gpio pins to dedicate to even a single window.

Not much activity here. It would be nice to move few people, gone spreading the word.

Salut, and don't spent too much time in yaml :))

I have a (non-automated) gas fired boiler supplying my heating. It comes on before I wake up so the house is nice and warm for me when I crawl out of bed.

I also like the bedroom to be warm at night when I go to bed, so the radiator is on in the bedroom.

What I don't like is waking up in a room that's too hot.

So is there some way of controlling the TLV on my bedroom radiator, maybe turning it down overnight? I know I could just remember to turn it down when I go to bed, but the plain fact is that I don't.