Scotland – The people of Shetland, a group of islands north of Scotland, are welcoming the arrival of spring in dramatic style – by burning viking longships. Up Helly Aa was first celebrated in 1881 and is unique to these islands. But it's a tradition that is evolving, with a woman at the heart of it for the first time.
Three hundred people, torches in hand, march through the main street of the fishing village of Cullivoe, on the island of Yell. At the port, they're met by a group of axe-wielding Vikings gathered around a wooden longship.
The leader of the group sets fire to his drakkar – a Viking longship. In the dark of night, one by one, the rest throw their torches onto the blaze. This is the climax of Up Helly Aa.
Alice Jamieson has been preparing for this moment for two years. The 35-year-old, a former Royal Navy nurse now working as a home carer, is the first woman to take on the role of Viking chieftain – a position until now reserved for men.
"I took a week to decide whether or not to accept. But I grew up here, Up Helly Aa celebrates the community and it's always been part of my life," she says.
For the past year, she’s been in charge of organising the four days of celebrations, with the help of her squad of around 20 people.
Jamieson has had to raise funds, build a dragon-headed Viking boat by hand and design emblems, costumes and weapons. Every year a new boat is built and every year a new design is chosen for the costumes and shields: a wolf, a phœnix, a weapon, a rune, a Celtic cross.
"During the creative process, I immersed myself in Norse mythology and came across the figure of the Valkyries, the female Viking warriors," she explains.
"They were also carers, like me. So I chose the wings of the Valkyries on my coat of arms, combined with the symbol of the nurses in the British Navy. In this mythology, the northern lights, which are often seen here, were the sparkling armour of these warriors as they crossed the sky, so their colour was the inspiration for the shields."
Up Helly Aa signifies the end of the winter solstice celebrations, which take place in Shetland from the end of February to the end of March – a festival of fire and a symbol of renewal.
"A friend of mine wasn't well at that time of year," said Brian Spence, who led the celebration in Cullivoe last year. "And his grandmother said to him, 'listen, it's going to be alright, we're going to burn everything that's wrong during the Up Helly Aa, it'll be alright afterwards'."
The analogy between the cremation ceremony and the change of season is easy to see.
"It's reminiscent of a historical re-enactment, with the chief's squad, the Jarl, meticulously recreating the costumes and weapons," historian Brian Smith explains.
An archivist at the Shetland Museum, Smith traces the origins of the festival back to the years just after the Napoleonic wars.
"You have to go back to the years 1815-1820, after the Napoleonic battles. The sailors returning from the wars went back to their villages, but all that awaited them there was the sound of the wind in the night. They wanted warmth, music, colour and laughter," he says.
Two hundred years ago, these young people created an event to mark the arrival of spring, with fireworks, drums and dancing, lit and heated by peat fires.
"It was lively, but a little chaotic, and on several occasions the authorities tried to restrict them," Smith adds.
By 1870, the costumes had become more elaborate. By 1880, Viking imagery had taken over. In every corner of the Shetland archipelago, young people started building dragon-headed boats to burn during the village fete.
"In those years, the history of the Viking peoples and the myth of these conquering warriors was very fashionable in the United Kingdom. Playing up this heritage – Shetland was colonised in the ninth century by the Scandinavians – seemed a natural fit," Smith explains.
Little has changed since 1880, and Up Helly Aa is still dominated by men.
"There are 900 participants and to become Jarl, you have to join the organising committee, which is made up of 15 people. So you know that these men will become Jarl before you do, you'll have to wait about 15 years for your turn," Smith says.
"For some Jarl, it becomes the most eagerly awaited day of their lives, more so than their wedding or the arrival of a child. So, a woman becoming Jarl? I don't see that happening for another 100 years."
It was primary school teacher Brian Spence who picked Jamieson to succeed him as Jarl of Cullivoe.
"I chose a woman because it doesn't make any difference. I think it was just a matter of someone taking the first step and saying ‘it's time’. It wasn't completely unanimous, but it's not a vote," he says.
"I have a son and a daughter, and now my daughter is also talking about ‘when she's the boss’. Alice grew up with Up Helly Aa like me; she's only missed one in her life since she was five. So, gender aside, she's the logical choice. She may be the only woman for 20 years, 50 years, but the precedent has been set."
For this tiny community, Up Helly Aa is a way of renewing social ties. Throughout the year, it's an excuse to get out of the house and meet up with other people to make plans, build the boat or come up with skits to perform at the event.
Lynn Thomson, a retired probation officer, grew up in Edinburgh but moved to Cullivoe.
"We're really isolated here. At times you think it would be so nice to be able to go out to eat or order a pizza. But that's not possible," Thomson says.
"People think Shetland is living in the past. They'll say 'wow, you've got TV and wow, you've got the internet'. But we're proving them wrong. It's no small thing that a woman has been chosen as Jarl. Society is misogynistic and it's time to change things. Of course, it's not going to change the world, but every little thing can help change societies."
After the boat's symbolic cremation, everyone gathers in the village hall for an evening of comedy sketches and, because no party in Scotland is complete without one, a ceilidh, the traditional dance.
The sound of the fiddle and accordion will be heard until the sun comes up – earlier in the day, at last.
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