Yeah, it changes without skipping a beat for me in pipewire, even in things like zoom/teams.
mranderson17
joined 1 year ago
I use a little oneliner with tofi (rofi/wofi would also work) to select the current output and avoid pavucontrol. It's mapped to a sway binding but would probably work in any wm/de:
pactl set-default-sink $(pactl list short sinks |awk '{print $2}' |tofi $tofi_args)
I'm using pipewire so the functionality of pactl is actually provided through pipewire-pulse I think
This gave me an idea. Have you considered buying a used higher quality rack and modifying it? Might save some time and get you what you want with less new material, and sort out some of the harder parts to fabricate because they'd be done already, possibly only requiring a little bending to align with your eyelets. Plus you'd be saving something from someone else's scrap pile.
Around me there are a few community run used bike part shops. They typically have lots of racks and other parts kindof organized into piles or boxes by type. I can usually find something close to what I need if it's not too specific.
I'm not aware of a welding process that is safe for humans without at least a dust/fume extractor. That and a respirator with the appropriate filters for the application that fits under a welding hood is basically standard equipment even for hobby welding in my opinion. Also hex chrome is a particulate, not a gas, and tig welding uses solid rods (not flux core) and a much smaller heat affected zone so it's already better in that area AFAICT, but I'm not an expert in this area.
As far as particulates when welding go you should watch how careless people are when they grind their tungsten electrodes containing all kinds of dangerous additives with their respirator around their neck because "I'm not welding so I don't need it".
So yes, this is good advice. We should all think more about the things we do, even when working on home improvement projects and mundane stuff, that could end up damaging our lungs.
If you want it to be easily repairable (you mentioned this in another comment) I'd go with small diameter aluminum tube and a very very good radius bender if you can AC tig weld, or stainless steel (maybe 316?) if you can only do DC tig. The reason for this is because neither option "requires" paint, though the aluminum does benefit a little from paint. Paint makes everything harder to repair (assuming the repair involves a welding process) because you have to grind it off again if you break something or want to make a modification.
Also, I totally get wanting to make things. My hobby projects are normally zero percent about saving money and 100% about having fun. Most things I make in my shop would cost about 1/4 of the price if I just went to the store and bought them, especially factoring in time and consumables.
EDIT: I suppose this comment really gives away what region I live in lol
Gatgetbridge (your link) has a breakdown of devices they support https://gadgetbridge.org/gadgets/ . You can click through the vendors to find devices which are both "highly supported" and "no vendor-pair". Meaning most/all the features work without any reliance on the vendor app.
As for the similarity you are asking about with pixel->GrapheneOS, there are very few watches that can run an alternative open source firmware or operating systems apart from the ones that are already open source, like bangle.js, pinetime, etc. Wearables are even more specialized than phones, they require specialized code designed specifically for them and would likely require pretty extreme effort to reverse-engineer.
I use a pebble 2 HR with gadgetbridge but the watch it self runs the old pebble firmware which gadgetbridge talks to. This is fine for me, but if you are looking for a more modern watch you may have to make some compromises.
The SQLite database is encrypted, though there was a period of time where it wasn't I think which may persist if your DB is older, but the key is stored right next to it on the filesystem. Signal desktop doesn't use your keyring or any of the other available methods to unlock it's database which is why you don't have to enter anything when starting the application, and why you can move it between machines by simply copying the .config/Signal dir. So while they are "encrypted", it's effectively clear text if you have access to the directory the database is stored in.
What makes those methods better?
Disclaimer, I'm at a sortof "advanced hobbyist" level of cad. My understanding of the topological naming problem in general is that it exists in all cad because it is a sortof byproduct of how computers keep track of data about 3 dimensional objects. If you make a cube, all the sides need to have an identifier associated with them. If you put a hole in that cube, you now have more identifiers and have to decide what ordering makes sense. It sounds easy to work around with a cube but when models get really complex it's not so easy, especially when you change something way back at the beginning which creates more or less faces in the middle of the list somewhere.
Freecad isn't making the topological naming problem "go away". They are creating (or rather merging, it's been around a long time) an algorithm that makes a better guess at what the order should be, rather than sticking new faces in the list and reordering without any consideration of what happened after that face was created. This is, as far as I understand, also how other CAD packages do it, and you can still back yourself into a topological naming problem if you try hard enough (or don't try at all I guess) in both freecad with the new changes applied, and in other CAD packages.
So "best practice" is to be smart about the attachment of your geometry thinking about how things might change in the future, rather than clicking the closest face whenever you need a sketch plane. In reality modern proprietary cad is so good at guessing and maintaining consistency that it doesn't matter unless your model is horrendously complex and whoever made it didn't pay any attention to laying out the base sketches in an organized way.
For example if you make a flange but you're not quite sure about the thickness, base the sketch for say, the holes, on the parallel origin and offset it by the height of the pad or the length of the sketched geometry. Or use a spreadsheet or variableset for the value of both the thing that you define the thickness with, and the offset from the origin plane. That way if the value changes, nothing will break.
I made a test model but it isn't something that shows up well in a single screenshot unfortunately. See the "Flange Thickness" and z offset parameters in the property view. I used that for the flange dimensions, and the hole sketch offset.
Interesting, it is working for me in wayland and the drop down menus are fine but I'm using sway which is a totally different wayland implementation than what KDE is doing. I'm glad you found a workaround.
Unfortunately I don't know what is causing the exact issue you are having, however here are a few things I found when doing this myself that are "gotchas" (not immediately obvious).
-
This is the reason your fonts are all Times New Roman. Go to that key using protontricks regedit and delete all the font replacements.
-
Anything you put in
$HOME/.steam/root/steamapps/common/assettocorsastays there, even if you uninstall the game. If you want to "start over" you have to uninstall the game and then delete the whole assettocorsa directory there, and the wine prefix in$HOME/.steam/root/steamapps/compatdata/244210 -
AC and content manager work without .net changes in the latest GE but you do need
corefontswhich you can install with protontricks. If you want to be extra sure you have the right .net you can install dotnet472 but I don't believe this is necessary anymore as it will be installed automatically or is already installed. You may get a wine .net error the first time you launch the game but it's only the first time. -
If you choose to use CSP you have to unzip the archive you get from either Patreon or acstuff.ru and manually copy the
dwrite.dllfile into$HOME/.steam/root/steamapps/common/assettocorsaon EVERY upgrade. The zip installer built into CM doesn't do this correctly on Linux. It will cause rain not to work if you choose to use the Patreon version if you don't do this manual step.
I think you should start over and make sure the assettocorsa directory is clean before re-installing the game. It could be missing fonts, but it's hard to say. You can back it up somewhere if you have data in there you need.
I like tofi as a wayland alternative. Unfortunately like so many of these projects it seems to be somewhat recently unmaintained.
Got the TM R383 Mod wheel all mounted and everything is working. I'm doing more driving than debugging which is a sign that I think it's near done.
The OpenFFBoard has shift register support so with no modification to the wheel other than a coily cable I was able to get all the buttons working. I designed some adapters to mount to an ebay QR (highly recommend this one called "For Racing Simulator Simagic Moza 70mm Steering Wheel Quick Release+Wheel Base" on ebay) which is rock solid. I was all ready to machine the adapter flanges out of metal but I put the prototypes on to check the fit and they were so rigid there's no point in taking the time to do it. It feels easily just as solid as my real car. Kindof amazing considering the threads are even printed into the PLA, no heatserts or anything.
Feel free to let me know if you want the FreeCAD models, I suspect at least the 70mm wheel side adapter would be compatible with other TM wheels too. I use the RT FreeCAD branch so they won't work in normal FreeCAD unfortunately.
It's running at about 14Nm right now, I don't have a thermister on the motor coils so I'm trying to be a bit conservative however I'm pretty sure 14Nm peak is way way more than I need personally. The motor and supporting hardware should technically support about 22 but I don't think I'll ever push it that hard. 14Nm is scary enough.
cross-posted from: https://infosec.pub/post/3508656 . I made some modifications since the last rig post, thought I'd cross post here too.
I don't have a lot of space where my desk is but wanted a combo space combat and racing rig that was fully rigid except for the seat.
The chair sits in a wheel trough with some 3d printed wheel chalks that fit the wheels exactly so it doesn't really move much at all when braking.
Everything is running on Linux using a lot of SDL and input device spoofing hacks to get it all recognized correctly in games. I mostly play DirtRally2.0, BeamNG, AMS2, and Overload. Trying to get into Elite Dangerous but it's not really my type of game. Maybe it will be some day though. Also play a little RBR but not all that much.
List of gear:
T300rs with a R383 Mod wheel - tmff2 driver. I designed a "quick" release ring so it's not a pain to take the wheel off for flight.
Heusinkveld Ultimate+ pedals - protopedal or xboxdrv depending on the game
TH8A shifter - heavily modified to fit in the small space I had and with a 3d printed short throw plate that I designed. It's not ideal, but works for occasional use.
Some ebay handbrake - I use xboxdrv for this sometimes if necessary but most games can find it. I also modified it to be mounted under the plate for a bit more space on top.
Gladiator NXT EVO Omni Throttle (Left and Right hand models) - These are a pain in most games. I use a winehid hack where I adjust the registry values
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE System CurrentControlSet Enum WINEBUS VID_231D&PID_{200,201} {Service, CompatibleIds}from xinput to winehid. This works but depends on the bus the device is currently connected to. Looking for a better SDL env var alternative but haven't got it working yet.Acer Nitro 37.5" QHD+ 3840 x 1600 curved display
NextLevelRacing "Wheel Stand 2.0" - I made some steel parts for it on the mill to increase rigidity, 3d printed spacers for the adjustable arms to tighten them up a bit since the stock ones are a bit sloppy, and made some extra plates for mounting the sticks and other stuff out of 10mm aluminum plate.
VKB UCM-S drop mount brackets for the sticks. I modified these as well to fit under the aluminum plates. The left one is hinged so that it can be folded upwards to get in and out of the chair when the chair wheels are fixed in place.
annnd... yes I know the shifter and handbrake are reversed... I like it that way.
I don't have a lot of space where my desk is but wanted a combo space combat and racing rig that was fully rigid except for the seat.
The chair sits in a wheel trough with some 3d printed wheel chalks that fit the wheels exactly so it doesn't really move much at all when braking.
Everything is running on Linux using a lot of SDL and input device spoofing hacks to get it all recognized correctly in games. I mostly play DirtRally2.0, BeamNG, AMS2, and Overload. Trying to get into Elite Dangerous but it's not really my type of game. Maybe it will be some day though. Also play a little RBR but not all that much.
List of gear:
T300rs with a R383 Mod wheel - tmff2 driver. I designed a "quick" release ring so it's not a pain to take the wheel off for flight.
Heusinkveld Ultimate+ pedals - protopedal or xboxdrv depending on the game
TH8A shifter - heavily modified to fit in the small space I had and with a 3d printed short throw plate that I designed. It's not ideal, but works for occasional use.
Some ebay handbrake - I use xboxdrv for this sometimes if necessary but most games can find it. I also modified it to be mounted under the plate for a bit more space on top.
Gladiator NXT EVO Omni Throttle (Left and Right hand models) - These are a pain in most games. I use a winehid hack where I adjust the registry values HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE System CurrentControlSet Enum WINEBUS VID_231D&PID_{200,201} {Service, CompatibleIds} from xinput to winehid. This works but depends on the bus the device is currently connected to. Looking for a better SDL env var alternative but haven't got it working yet.
Acer Nitro 37.5" QHD+ 3840 x 1600 curved display
NextLevelRacing "Wheel Stand 2.0" - I made some steel parts for it on the mill to increase rigidity, 3d printed spacers for the adjustable arms to tighten them up a bit since the stock ones are a bit sloppy, and made some extra plates for mounting the sticks and other stuff out of 10mm aluminum plate.
VKB UCM-S drop mount brackets for the sticks. I modified these as well to fit under the aluminum plates. The left one is hinged so that it can be folded upwards to get in and out of the chair when the chair wheels are fixed in place.
annnd... yes I know the shifter and handbrake are reversed... I like it that way.
Had a nice relaxing series of crashes today.
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Or add EA anti-cheat 6 months after release like they did for EA WRC.