dack

Do you have a good low impedance ground connection between the devices? This sounds like there is something else going on.

A simple way to check is to use the strings as a straight edge. Fret a string at fret 1 and fret 15 simultaneously. That removes the bridge and nut from the equation, and gives you a perfect straight edge. Then check for a small gap between the string and fret 7. The size of that gap tells you how much relief the neck has. You can change it by adjusting the truss rod. Use very small adjustments (like 1/8 turn) and retune the strings before checking the relief again.

If you need to replace the truss rod nut, there are various techniques to remove the stripped one. Start by removing all string tension (this makes it easier to loosen). For a tool, you just need to find something that grabs enough to get it to turn. A slightly larger allen wrench, a blade screwdriver, a screw extractor, etc. Another option would be to find a bit of metal bar that fits in the socket and super glue it on. Then you can grab the bar with vice grip pliers and turn it.

If you are comparing two frequency response graphs, how do you decide which is "better"? It's totally subjective and depends on what sound you prefer. And there's much more to choosing a guitar than that. For example, the action and quality of the fretboard is a major consideration.

No, it isn't. They just gave free upgrades from 7 to 10 and 10 to 11.

Definitely agree on Celeste. The way the experience of playing the game mirrors the story is masterful.

Can you post a photo of your actual connector? Inspect it closely for broken/damaged pins. Where do the other ends of these cables go? If it's a proprietary connector that's hard-wired into the motor, then replacement cables might not be readily available. If the connector is broken and replacements are not available, then I would probably consider replacing the connectors with a soldered connection.

I've also had issues with the infinite spinner on the login form.