AbidingOhmsLaw
joined 1 year ago
Strands #173
“The nose knows”
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depends on how much is in it.
Purple by process of elimination.
Connections
Puzzle #439
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When you flushed and replaced the coolant did you draw the lines down with a vacuum pump before filling with new oil/coolent? If it got moisture in the line it might have caused junk to form in the metering tubes? You can use an inspection camera to see if there is frost covering and blocking the airflow through the evap coil
Also as @jk43 said check the schematic and see it there is a high temp thermostat on the compressor, might just be a bad thermal switch or something wrong with the compressor
So the landlord is loosing 5k a month? No wonder they want to sell.
Not an HVAC pro but these are a couple of things I can think of,
- check to see if the compressor pump is turning when it stops cooing, might be an issue with the electric clutch on the compressor. also check the voltage at the clutch if it stops engaging to see if it’s the clutch or something else causing it to stop
- to much coolant line, is it over pressure? have you been filing the R134 yourself from small cans? it could be “icing up” due to to high of a head pressure at the compressor. check the pressures both at the high side and low side with a gauge set
- blocked drain line, the coil in the car will condense water that drips down and out of the car with the drain line blocked drain could cause it to ice up
- blocked/low air flow will also cause it to ice up make sue that both the evaporator and condenser coil are free of junk, a layer of dust can often form lowering the airflow past the coil causing it to ice up, you might need a inspection camera to look at the coil inside the car without taking the dash apart
Wordle 1,160 4/6
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A lot of independent mechanics will use the manufacturer scan tool and service applications or use a 3rd party scan tool/applications that is licensed through the manufacturer and still uploads the data.
Wordle 1,159 4/6
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m-w.com/games/quordle/
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just not seeing it
I have a project that is using a Teensy 4.1, the cheep 5v regulator I was using in the project let the magic smoke out for no good reason. I replaced that but now the Teensy boots and runs for about a min then quits. There is a TLV75733P power IC that is supplying the 3v3 and it gets hot then quits supplying power. Since that IC is $0.46 vs a new Teensy 4.1 ~ $40 I want to try and replace it. I have done a bit of SMD work but not tried to remove a tiny chip with a GND pad before so I’m looking for any tips. The PCB of the Teensy has header pins so I can’t really get good contact to a hot plate to preheat the board.
I can’t hit the local analog repeaters without using the higher power on my HTX242 (yeah it’s old but it’s what I got), the HT I have is DMR (and analog) but I would like to use low power DMR to make the battery last longer. I want to do something like this (see pic). Anyone done something similar?
Note I already have moded the HTX for COS output and made a control interface using a ESP32, I also have a Pi-star hotspot that I could repurpose until I can get another.
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