this post was submitted on 06 Jul 2023
5 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

15130 readers
21 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
 

I'm pretty new to PETG, and have been really struggling with it compared to PLA. My latest print of this part is dimensionally accurate, but I need it to be air tight. It is very much not at the moment.

I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3, so the hot end and nozzle are one interchangeable unit. My higher temp nozzle is 0.6mm. My 0.3mm is only capable of 240. My last print was 0.2mm layers, with the 0.6mm nozzle at 245C. I used 15% overlap on my walls, and in order to keep my nice dimensions I had my cooling fan on.

Anybody have any advice on how to improve the seal? I'm tempted to try more overlap, with random start locations per layer. Do you think if I run it hotter I can get the layers a little thinner? Any advice would be appreciated.

top 11 comments
sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Are you printing your own fountain pen grip sections? That's wild.

I haven't found a reason to get into 3D printing... but I do love fountain pens.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Have you joined the fountain pen community yet? We're pretty content starved.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Not yet. Is it on lemmy.world? Can you link it?

[email protected] ?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

I haven't really done links on Lemmy yet.. can I just paste it? Let's see!

[email protected]

Edit: No, you do not just paste them. Hopefully that's better!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Hi there! Looks like you linked to a Lemmy community using an URL instead of its name, which doesn't work well for people on different instances. Try fixing it like this: [email protected]

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Trying to! The ultimate goal is a full pen. I'm thinking eyedropper filled, then lever filler.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

That's badass. Please post updates on your project. I will follow your career with great interest.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Around a year ago Stephan from CNC Kitchen on YT did a bunch of scientific tests to show how to best bond layers and attempt to print without inclusions. Maybe check that out. It requires higher temps and super dialed in squish. Printing perfect PETG requires double the amount of tuning and effort as PLA. It also sucks up moisture to the extreme. Like you can print fine with kinda wet PETG, it will make lots of zits, stringing, and terrible seams. If you want it perfect, the stuff has to be dried to the extreme and printed from a drybox. I hate PETG. I'd rather print any other filament if I can. If I really need to use it, I dry it, but I also manually place every single seam on the inside of my part and in the middle of any back walls. Almost all issues with PETG will occur due to or around seams. If you can hide all of these, the outside of the part can look nice. Like I'll go into my design and add a tiny chamfered groove in the outer surface if I have no choice and must have an external seam. Just forcing the extrusion anchor inside the part by a few millimeters can help mitigate the issues. All the problems are due to moisture expanding and causing ooze combined with PETG being extremely sticky when molten.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

My issues are definitely around the seams. I thought randomize go the starting points on my layers would help, but it just made the whole part leaky instead of having it localized. I'll definitely check out that video, thank you!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

This probably isn't what you want to hear, but if I need something watertight, I use a material that can be smoothed during post-processing using a vapour bath (I prefer PVB, but ABS or HIPS should also work). Smoothing the print effectively causes it to self-coat. PETG may simply not be the best choice for your application.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

If i want quick and easy watertight i'll coat it in a paint sealer (or similiar) from the craft store. I have yet to manage printing a watertight print right on the bed.

load more comments
view more: next ›