Sewing, Repairing and Reducing Waste

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A place to share ideas, knowledge and creations with textiles. The focus is on reducing waste, whether that be sewing from the scraps left from other projects, using the end of rolls and remnants, or repairing and remaking finished pieces.

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[answered] Front-load bobbins -- any advantages? Or only downsides? (slrpnk.net)

submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/sewingrepairing

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I watched several sewing videos in preparation to buy a machine. The consensus is that drop-in bobbins are easier for beginners than front-load. Well I’m the kind of person who wants to get to the /expert/ stage & if that means doing things the hard way, so be it. But then the question is, what are the advantages of front-loads?

Youtube video id rbhfilt68vI titled “TESTED Best Sewing Machines for Beginners” suggests that front-load bobbins are more likely to get tangled and jammed. That sounds like an anti-feature for both beginners and experienced users. So why do front-load bobbin designs even exist?

(edit)

I think I got my answer. Video F7GTjrc-m5w says front-loading enables the machine to go faster and also enables you to switch bobbins mid-task.

I care more about jamming than speed. But the mid-task swapping sounds useful because I don’t suppose you can predict when it will run out. So I guess I need to consider how much stock to put into the comment about jamming.

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[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I haven't come across any significant discussion surrounding this before and I wouldn't recommend choosing a machine on this basis.

A front-loading bobbin is only an advantage for changing mid-task if you catch it before the thread runs out, otherwise you'll be backtracking and starting again anyway once you've replaced it. I suppose if there is a viewing window and you can see when it is about to run out then this is an advantage, otherwise you won't know when to stop and change it anyway until you notice that it has already run out.

In terms of speed I doubt you will find any typical sewing machine "too slow" unless you plan to sew a lot and you want it finished quickly. For a few repairs or alterations and the occasional custom piece speed is not a priority, most of the time you will want to go slower anyway for more control/accuracy.

I think you need to put less thought into what machine you get and more thought into getting some machine and start sewing without thinking so much about details like how the bobbin is loaded. As a beginner these things don't matter, and by the time you are non-beginner enough for them to matter then you will know what aspects are important to you and if you want to upgrade. As it is, you can't really jump to making "expert-level" choices because you don't have the experience to know, for example, if speed is even a priority to you.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

I just went to a street market and lifted¹ a dozen or so machines. I bought the heaviest one figuring it has the fewest plastic parts. It’s a Singer from the late '60’s. Front-load bobbin. Found the user manual and service manual online.

The one job I’m uncertain of is whether it can hem denim. The user manual says it can sew denim with a size 16 needle and canvas with a size 18 needle, but if I’m hemming denim then I think it must be able to penetrate 6 layers of denim (where the vertical seam gets folded). The manual makes no mention of layers. Motor is 85 watts.

I realized well after buying that there is no “arm”. I suspect that will be quite inconvenient with hemming in my case because I was planning to do non-destructive technique: undo the original hem and without cutting fold it up as high up the leg as needed. That will be a pain when the cuff can’t wrap around the base.

1: physically picked up, not stole

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

You might have to help the motor along through the thickest parts by turning the hand wheel. No big deal, since it's only for a handful of stitches.

Yes, a free arm is of course helpful, but if you had to shorten the legs so far up that it wouldn't fit, you would need to cut it off anyway. You can't keep 15 or 20 cm of fabric inside the pant legs.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

That machine is a pretty solid choice if it works, and a worthwhile repair project if it doesn't (it may have seized up if not maintained recently or it may have timing or alignment issues from age).

Machines like that are quite solidly built compared to modern machines, I would be surprised if it can't get through a few layers of denim for a few stitches (I wouldn't recommend doing 6 layers continuously, but crossing over the side seam should be OK). If you're concerned you can always hand crank it for that part.

The lack of a free arm may be somewhat limiting for hems. The "stupid" solution would be to stand the machine up on top of a crate or similar, as long as the circumference of the leg/other fabric is large enough to fit around the bottom metal "plate" of the machine. (These machines have a metal body designed to be built into a cabinet or shelf top. I'm not sure if yours includes a wooden box around the bottom or if it is just the machine itself, but if there is any wood then the machine can be removed from this leaving just the metal body of the machine itself which may provide more flexibility in this regard.)

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

I have machines with both types, and prefer the front loading bobbins. But that's probably just because that's what I have been used to. I have had tangling and jamming on both, but only very sporadically, mostly due to low quality thread (especially cotton can be tricky if you get the wrong stuff. Polyester thread is more forgiving but shouldn't be too old)