3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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If you’re using something like a tap or anything that uses the nozzle as the probe then you do want the bed and nozzle to be at temp (or close) so any thermal expansion is included.
Same applies if you’re using something like auto Z offset (since it’s going to be hit with the probe AND nozzle)
If you’re using something like a Klicky or BL touch then you need the bed to be temp but the nozzle doesn’t matter since you’re measuring with the probe. But… you do want the nozzle to be at temp when calibrating the Z offset so the right figure is used.
Personally… I have a Klicky (Klackender actually) and heat the bed and then dial in the zoffset with a print and baby stepping