this post was submitted on 13 Oct 2023
14 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

15519 readers
170 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
 

I've been looking to switch the bowden extruder for a direct drive type on my Anycubic Kobra Max. I've always hated the blobbing and stringing due to the bowden mechanism. After having received an LDO Orbiter v2.0 today and a bit of tinkering, I now have what I was after :).

The easiest way to install the new extruder was to simply attach it on top of the existing hotend via a small bowden tube and a coupler. I had to design a little adapter flange that attaches to the extruder and accepts a tube coupler. The extruder now dangles in the air. For now this didn't seem to cause any trouble. In the future I might install it using a fixed bracket though.

While I was at it, I also added some additional insulation to the bed (300x300mm in size, so I had to cut a bit). I'm not sure if it really helps a lot but the bed now heats up from 20° to 60° in 3:40 instead of in 4:00. The printer also seems to consume 100mA less (very inaccurate mental averaging of power meter).

Bonus: First functional part printed with new setup, rectifying some of the original parts issues.

Up next: Get a second Orbiter and have it feed a mixing hotend. My goal is to make nice Lampshades.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Huh, makes sense I guess. I print lampshades that usually remove easily due to the small surface and for small parts I often just use a tiny hammer to get them off.

As for the wiring, I was considering keeping all the existing cabling which I well made and just create adaptors from the connectors that went into the old board to the Manta. The board and connectors are labelled IIRC and in doubt my multimeter will have to be used.