I dont know why they have to lie about it. At $5/8ft board you'd think I paid for the full 1.5. Edit: I mixed up nominal with actual.
this post was submitted on 07 May 2024
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Lol. Trying to find lumber that's straight and square is a pipe dream these days.
It was straight and square when it was milled. Problem is that the big box stores cut corners during the kiln drying phase, so the boards have a ton of moisture still in them. As that dries, the boards twist and cup.
Plus poor protection from the elements at each storage step, which means rapid temp changes, which also causes wood movement.
Go to a local lumber yard. They tend to do a better job at kiln drying. You're still going to have warped boards, but far fewer in my experience.
Yeah, once I get my garage sorted out (and buy a jointer or make a Jig for my planer) I'm going to start getting rough cut lumber and finish it myself.
I tried the sled with shims on my thickness planer. It worked, but it was certainly a pain in the ass and unwieldy due to weight and length.
Picked up a 6" bench top jointer. Not great at long boards due to length of the feeds. Picked up some roller stands hoping that would be close enough, but I moved and the garage needs a lot of work before I can try them out.
If you can pick up a full floor sized jointer and have room for it, you'll save yourself several headaches if you plan on jointing a ton of rough cut lumber.
I have to talk to someone at the lumber yard though ...
I've had better luck at a real lumber yard, instead of the big box stores.
It's the same 10 pieces on the top of the pile for weeks. Everyone is reaching for the pieces under. As long as it's not 2x2PT
Which is why I buy stock rough sawn and mill it myself.
That's my plan once I find a used jointer for sale.
if you own a thickness planer, you don't immediately need a jointer. You can flatten a face with a sled and shims in the planer, and joint edges a frillion different ways. I have a jointer and sometimes I use my router table for edge jointing.