v1605

Some background, I originally removed the chips from the board on the left for a Pocket Color Build. It's original fault was no power, which turned out to be a dirty power switch and corroded battery contacts.

The new board had signs of corrosion under the solder mask and previous work (bent ram pins and bridges on the cpu). I decided to move the chips on the other instead of trying to restore the traces. Soldering all went well, until my hand slipped while testing if the connections were solid. One of the pins (bottom left) is pretty bent and the pad on the end was partially lifted.

I was able to heat all those back up and confirm no bridges and the pads are connected. Booted up a quick game to test a screen, sounds and all the buttons. Everything is working.

Moral of the story, be careful and don't put too much pressure on those pins.

The SGB CPU is compatible with the DMG. By swapping the CPU, your Gameboy will skip the falling Nintendo animation. This decreases the boot speed.

What's everyone playing? I'm enjoying Mr. Driller for the GBC.

Thought I would show this off here too.

This is an open source project that adds a GBC processor and screen into a DMG shell. Have to say, I really enjoy the weight. The github can be found here.

This was my first attempt doing a trace repair on a HDMI port. Seems like everything seems to be working after replacing those caps as well. Played through the tutorial of gears 5 with no issues.

What I've tested:

1. Playing downloaded game
2. Playing a Blu-ray
3. Playing on a 4k TV and 1440 monitor. This one the auto detect preferred 120hz 1080p but manually selecting resolution works great.

What I've learned:

1. Wired all the pads before soldering the port. I attached the front wires after the port was soldered. Should have just done them all.
2. A cheap grinding pen is so much easier to use than a knife to expose the traces.
3. 0201 are very hard to work with.

Picked up this Series X to do a trace repair for the hdmi, turns out 2 caps were ripped off the board as well. The one was still partially connected and easy to bodge. The second circled is missing. I'm curious if anyone knows the replacement value.

The similar caps in the area all read between 18.6 to 19.6 uf when out of circuit, so it could be a few values (though no guarantee this cap wasn't unique and completely different).

The 369 in 1 can be reflashed with the Nightrap rom. Funny thing too, the bootleg shell feels higher quality.

Limited Run Games did preorders last April fools 2023. No actual gameplay, just the movies in quality similar to the GBA video carts.

Rom is 256mb. It doesn't load in the Mister, OpenFPGA, or mGBA.

. 3 MBC1, 1 MBC3, and 1 MBC30

I happen to have a board from my FunnyPlaying build so I figured I'd give it a shot. Used enamel wire to make the button contacts and got 3.3v from the cart slot. I also removed the caps as to not power any circuits that didn't need (CPU and RAM were donors to the other board). Power is provided via AA batteries.

Still very much a work in progress but it works reasonably well (about 8ms of lag). I want to ultimately create an easier to install PCB rather than the perfboard I used.