kek_w_lol

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago

If anyone is interested, the problem was due to packing material not being completely removed from under the printbed.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (1 children)

So, the PSU voltage switch is for setting input voltage. You might be running it on 110V instead of 230V, though unlikely but it doesn't hurt to check.

Checking the y motor and endstop wiring I recommended because I had a similar problem on my x-axis when my motor wire and endstop wire came loose, where the motor was jittering and buzzing, but not moving.

The .cfg file is the configuration file for Klipper firmware, which is taylored for your printer. Since you said that your firmware issues got fixed I don't think that's it, but if nothing else, redownload and reinstall the .cfg file and if that does not help, reinstall klipper as a last resort. Do so only if nothing else helps.

If you need more help, I could help you through video chat. Just DM me.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 10 months ago (3 children)

Just in case, check the PSU Voltage. Check the plugs on the Y axis motor. Worst case, you might need to redownload the CFG file for your printer. Try that. Write again if none of that works.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago (5 children)

What country are you located in?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 10 months ago (7 children)

So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that's it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it "lacks" is a filament sensor (haven't had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 10 months ago (9 children)

All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It's not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago (11 children)

So lets start from the top:

  1. All printers have the same precision.

  2. I guess you're talking about input shaping, which reduces artifacts and shaking of the printer (a little)

  3. Most budget printers right now have lots of the same creature comforts that this printer has.

Right now the biggest things are community/aftermarket support (moddability), price and firmware. You should get Klipper to get input shaping, so that narrows it down. Look for some klipper printers (e.g. Sovol sv07) and decide which one you like best. They are almost all the same, save for qc and qa issues by some companies and sometimes lackluster support. Any printer can produce awesome prints. It's only a question of how much time you have to fiddle with the settings. Cheers!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago

Apple sux ass anyway.

[–] [email protected] 23 points 10 months ago (2 children)
[–] [email protected] 1 points 10 months ago
[–] [email protected] 6 points 10 months ago (1 children)

Don't speak for the council, you dog! You liar!

[–] [email protected] 8 points 10 months ago (4 children)

Their fur is wet, needs to dry by a fire.

 

Designed an easy to print spool held together by M3 screws. No supports necessary. Master Spool standard.

STEP and STL here: www.printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

 

3d printed threads and snap connectors are nice, but M3 bolts and nuts are more robust and look dope. They also make the model easier todesign print, since you don't have to worry about tolerances as much.

STEP/STL and instructions available here: www.printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

 

Hey guys. Just wanted to hear some opinions on the Hero Me system. I personally think it's an neat idea and am definitely going to build one. What do you think? Have you used it?

 

Printed threads and snap connectors are nice, but M3 bolts and nuts are more robust and look dope. They also make the model easier to design and print, since you don't have to worry about tolerances as much.

STEP files here: printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

 

Hi all! I need a high temperature (~200C) motion system for ahem reasons. I know that at those temperatures steppers tend to cook, so keeping them inside the heated chamber is out of the question. I have already considered belts, screws (lead and ball) and stainless cable. Belts will not work because they will melt. Screws do not allow for static motor mounting and stainless steel cable has slip and extreme tension. Do you guys think chains and sprockets will work? Are they precise enough? Any input is welcome.

view more: next ›