[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

Thanks for the tip, but I asked a while ago and they gave me a weird look and said they weren't interested in any old games. They don't sell any second hand stuff, and I suppose they rather sell something new to people instead of helping people find new owners. I did however bring all of my unpainted minis to a games convention a few years ago and traded them for other games. They didn't want rules / starter boxes or magazines though, I think that's more difficult to sell.

Melast paid for shipping so all the old WDs are on their way to their new home though :) I still have the Citadel Miniatures 1994 catalogue if anyone is interested, but it's mostly black and white photos of unpainted minis and it weights 750g. I.e. a bit expensive to mail and probably not very interesting for most people unless they're collectors

[-] [email protected] 2 points 4 days ago

With reservation for typos, the issues I want to get rid of are 175, 178-199, 201-203, 208, 209, 211, 212, 217.. Which ought to add up to 31 in total. I put them in a sturdy box on the bathroom scale and it said 8.6kg and looked up what it would cost to send them on postnord.se: 245 SEK within Sweden, €58 within EU, €63 rest of Europe, €105 rest of the world. Maybe DHL or UPS could be cheaper, dunno if anyone thinks its worth it.

WDs do not include any miniatures which originally came with them btw, but I noticed that at least one issue has some kind of cardboard buildings and tokens inserts that were intact. There's also a 1994 Citadel Miniatures catalogue in very good condition, but it's thick a.f. and heavy

[-] [email protected] 4 points 4 days ago

That's what it feels like, but realistically I know that I hoard too much stuff and would probably never read them again, and if I do get the urge to feel nostalgic I think one or two issues will be enough to keep :) If postage turns out to be too much for any interested parties here, perhaps I'll ask the local gaming stores if anyone there wants them.

[-] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago

Didn't even know they were printed in more languages than English, but yes they are. A little bit of wear from being read, but not too bad. I checked Ebay briefly but selling them individually seems too much work for what it's worth for me, so I'm happy to give them away if someone else will enjoy them. I'll check the issue numbers and weigh the stack tomorrow to see how much it would cost to send them somewhere

24
submitted 5 days ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Going through some boxes and found a stack of old White Dwarf. I'll keep the first issue I ever bought as a memory but planning to get rid of the rest. Just wanted to check if there are people collecting these before they go into the recycling bin. If anyone's interested I can make a list of which ones I have, and I'll send them to anyone willing to pay for postage. Located in Sweden.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 5 days ago

It's a functional programming language, so you have to think quite differently when using it if you're used to imperative programming languages (e.g. C++, Java, Python, Basic). I learned it at uni and it was quite fun, but I wouldn't know how to write a larger project in it.

[-] [email protected] 5 points 6 days ago

Nikki and the Robots, it's written in Haskell

[-] [email protected] 4 points 6 days ago

I initially wrote 100, but when starting to look through my Steam library I realized how few games had that few reviews. All the indie games I thought might be borderline unknown turned out to have 5k+ reviews.

72
submitted 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Any games with less than 1000 total Steam reviews you've enjoyed and thought more people ought to know about? Not a hard limit, just a guideline for what could be classified as "undiscovered" on Steam, assuming it wasn't released yesterday.

I would recommend:

  • Full Bore, a cute block-based puzzle platformer. Solid mechanics, level designs and even a somewhat engaging story. ~~Unfortunately hasn't been on a sale since 2021 according to steampricehistory.com, while it was frequently reduced to €2-3 before that. Not sure I'd recommend it to everybody at full price, but IMO it's one of the best indie platformers I've played.~~ edit: Did someone email the creator of Full Bore or something? It's suddenly on sale again, for the first time in ages :) Go buy it!
[-] [email protected] 18 points 1 month ago

Maybe it's changing now with Windows 10/11, but I think historically Windows has had just as difficult learning curve as Linux. People who have complained about Linux being more difficult than Windows just thought so because they had already spent years learning how to deal with Windows, while if they switched to Linux they would have to learn new things. If someone who has used MacOS 100% of their life were to begin using either Windows or Linux then I don't think there would be much difference in difficulty.

I've come across plenty of bugs and usability issues in Windows, and despite having 10+ years experience with the OS I sometimes found them very difficult to solve, often requiring copy-pasting cryptic texts into the command prompt and/or regedit. I also think troubleshooting on Windows is made worse thanks to them writing witty things like "oops, something went wrong!" instead of actually giving you a useful error message, some many issues are of course unfixable due to its proprietary nature. At best you get an error code which you can look up online, but the OS is not made to be debugged by the user.

In the past Microsoft had really good support which you chat with, but the last time Windows refused to authenticate after an upgrade all the human support appears to have been replaced by automated troubleshooters. It got stuck in an endless loop of "run local troubleshooter" -> "you should try rebooting" -> "run online troubleshooter" -> "you should try rebooting" -> "back to the local troubleshooter again". At work I still have a help-desk I can call with people who have taken countless hours of Microsoft trainings to get certifications.

just so I wasn’t choosing between 100% and 200% scaling. That’s just beyond the average computer user.

So if I understood you right, Fedora lets you choose either 100% or 200% scaling but you wanted more options than that? I.e. you wanted to overcome a limitation of the OS, rather than having to fix something which was broken? I don't think the average computer user could do something similar in Windows. For example when I got my work computer with Windows 11, AFAIK there was no option to only show the task bar on one monitor, so it was always visible and taking space on all monitors. IIRC Microsoft added this feature last year, but I think it would've been extremely difficult for the average user to find a way to find a way to do it before that.

Guesstimating 99% of the Windows users I know would just accept that kind of thing like "it's annoying, but this is how computers are". I have friends, family members and coworkers who use Windows, and I've found them all to be extremely forgiving towards computer issues.

38
submitted 4 months ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I have calibrated my monitors to create icc profiles, they show up in KDE color management and everything used to work exactly as it should. Now every time I start my computer it goes like this:

  1. I log in to my account
  2. It shows my desktop, with the right colour correction.
  3. After a few seconds the colours revert to look un-calibrated on both monitors.
  4. I restart the colord service and it loads the colour correction again.

As an alternative to step 4, if I go to KDE colour settings, select the default profile and then back to my profile then it also starts looking good again.

This problem must've started a week or two ago, but unfortunately I haven't been able to pinpoint exactly when. I haven't touched anything related to colour management in months, and don't think I've done any changes to my system other than upgrading packages.

Can't see anything colour related in the syslog except colord loading the correct profiles. I removed all the old profiles that I wasn't using anyway. I removed dispcal's profile loader from autostart to make sure it wasn't interfering with something. The profiles are both installed system wide and in my user folder.

Using Fedora 39 KDE.

Anyone have any idea what could be wrong, or even how to debug this?

[-] [email protected] 26 points 7 months ago

It sucks when this happens, but the article also says:

Update 20/11/23 14:33 UTC — Crytek responded to note: "This is a known issue and we are working on it to fix it and apply the fix for the resolution as soon as possible."

So not ideal but at least the devs want to support Linux.

[-] [email protected] 68 points 7 months ago

Based on the comments here, it sounds like you and others agree that the majority of people who responded to your initial post didn't do anything wrong, but you thought the overall experience was negative due to a few mean comments, right? So with this meme post, you portray the entire community as a bloodthirsty mob who got angry at you for asking a question. Do you see how this could be considered "not nice" to the people who wrote helpful comments, those who downvoted the negative comments, and people who didn't even see your post but are still included in the ergo mech community here? While those who wrote mean comments to your post should consider being kinder to newbies, perhaps you ought to consider being kinder to everybody else.

23
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Only played it for an hour but it's pretty good so far, if you like this type of gameplay. Feels somewhere in between Hell Let Loose and Battlefield 1. Native Linux version.

[-] [email protected] 40 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago)

This is the first time I'm hearing about this, but this is how they describe it on their product page:

The AI-Powered Future of Windows Devices

Build, explore, and immerse yourself on select laptops with Ryzen™ AI built in. With dedicated AI accelerator hardware seamlessly integrated on-chip and software that intelligently optimizes tasks and workloads, CPU and GPU resources are freed up to enable optimal performance.

But based on the examples they have on github, it sounds like it might be useful to run generic AI compute stuff. I haven't seen any details about what memory it uses, since especially LLMs require large amounts of fast memory. If it can use all the system RAM it might provide medium-fast inference of decent models, similar to M1/M2 Macs. If it has dedicated RAM it'll probably be even faster but possibly extremely limited in what you can do with it.

3
submitted 11 months ago by [email protected] to c/localllama

I'm trying to learn more about LLMs, but I haven't found any explanation for what determines which prompt template format a model requires.

For example meta-llama's llama-2 requires this format:

...INST and <> tags, BOS and EOS tokens...

But if I instead download's TheBloke's version of llama-2 the prompt template should instead be:

SYSTEM: ...

USER: {prompt}

ASSISTANT:

I thought this would have been determined how the original training data was formatted, but afaik TheBloke only converted the llama-2 models from one format to another. Looking at the documentation for the GGML format I don't see anything related to the prompt being embedded in the model file.

Anyone who understands this stuff who could point me in the right direction?

64
submitted 11 months ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Maybe I'm using the wrong terms, but what I'm wondering is if people are running services at home that they've made accessible from the internet. I.e. not open to the public, only so that they can use their own services from anywhere.

I'm paranoid a f when it comes to our home server, and even as a fairly experienced Linux user and programmer I don't trust myself when it comes to computer security. However, it would be very convenient if my wife and I could access our self-hosted services when away from home. Or perhaps even make an album public and share a link with a few friends (e.g. Nextcloud, but I haven't set that up yet).

Currently all our services run in docker containers, with separate user accounts, but I wouldn't trust that to be 100% safe. Is there some kind of idiot proof way to expose one of the services to the internet without risking the integrity of the whole server in case it somehow gets compromised?

How are the rest of you reasoning about security? Renting a VPS for anything exposed? Using some kind of VPN to connect your phones to home network? Would you trust something like Nextcloud over HTTPS to never get hacked?

7
submitted 11 months ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

The only Linux questions community I found appears to be locked, so I hope it's ok to ask here..

For a very long time I've had the issue that occasionally, perhaps 1 out of 40 boots, my mouse does not work once the OS starts. The mouse appears to turn on during POST/BIOS/GRUB, then it goes dark again while the OS is booting, and to make it turn back on I have to crawl under the desk, unplug it and plug it back in. 39 times out of 40 (approximately) it just goes dark briefly and turns on in time for the OS. The mouse also works just fine in UEFI.

This happens in Xubuntu, Fedora and Windows, and with two different mice from different manufacturers. I've also upgraded the motherboard twice and pretty much every component in the computer. The only thing that's always has been there is GRUB, which is why I suspect it could be involved.

It happens so rarely that I never really bothered to try to find a solution for it, but it is kinda annoying when it happens.

2
submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/1396665

I'm about to invest in some "prosumer" level 18V power tools, e.g. Makita, Dewalt, Metabo, etc. The general consensus appears to be that they're all more or less equal and it doesn't matter much which brand one goes with, but a few years ago I developed tinnitus which has made me more sensitive to high frequency sounds. And having tested a few cordless drill drivers at various hardware stores I can definitely tell they're not equal when it comes to what the noise sounds like, even if they measure similarly in sound pressure level.

Currently I have a Ryobi 18V brushless that I measure to 83-84 dB(c) at 1m which makes it pretty loud, and it also has a quite a quite high pitched sound which makes it worse. Looking at a spectrogram from a calibrated measurement mic there's a pretty clear peak at 6kHz. The drill drivers I've been looking at all have a rated sound pressure level (Lp) around 76 dB so they should already be noticeably less loud, but I'm hoping to find one without those high frequencies if possible.

I've been able to test a few drills in person and got some initial impressions. Unfortunately the local hardware stores have a pretty limited selection of brands, they don't have all models in the store, and you usually have to bother the staff if you want to try something with batteries in it. At first I thought I could remember my subjective opinion of different drivers, but when I later got the opportunity to re-compare two of them head to head I realised I have really bad memory..

Head-to-head comparisons that I've done:

Makita DDF484 vs Dewalt DCD791: The Makita has a very high frequency whine, kind of like dentist's drill. The Dewalt is probably just as loud, but a little lower pitch making the noise slightly more tolerable, while still not great.

Makita DDF484 vs 485 vs 486: When it comes to high pitched noise, 484 was worst, followed by 485, and the 486 was most tolerable.

Dewalt DCD791 vs DC800: The 800 had a more high pitched noise than the 791, once again reminding me of the dentist's drill.

Not compared with anything, so only subjective impression:

Hikoki (a.k.a. Metabo HPT in USA) DV18DD and Dewalt DCD777: Smaller and weaker tools but much more quiet than everything else. If I were going to buy 2 drill drivers I'd probably get something like these plus one larger for heavier work.

Metabo (the made in Germany, non-HPT, brand) DS 18 LT BL: Only had a quick try with this machine but without having anything to compare it with I thought it sounded pretty reasonably tolerable. There's a version with quick change chucks, unfortunately only the smaller (L) and larger (LTX) models have offset and angle chucks for some reason but that's a feature I would really like to have.

Anyone compared Milwaukee to other brands with respect to noise? The only store I found that sells them said they didn't have any charged batteries so I couldn't try any.

Not exactly sure what I'm expecting from this post, since the question is so subjective.. Perhaps someone with experience of multiple cordless drill drivers could share their opinion? Or someone else with a similar aversion to high pitched noises could say if they found any tool that they're happy with?

9
submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I'm about to invest in some "prosumer" level 18V power tools, e.g. Makita, Dewalt, Metabo, etc. The general consensus appears to be that they're all more or less equal and it doesn't matter much which brand one goes with, but a few years ago I developed tinnitus which has made me more sensitive to high frequency sounds. And having tested a few cordless drill drivers at various hardware stores I can definitely tell they're not equal when it comes to what the noise sounds like, even if they measure similarly in sound pressure level.

Currently I have a Ryobi 18V brushless that I measure to 83-84 dB(c) at 1m which makes it pretty loud, and it also has a quite a quite high pitched sound which makes it worse. Looking at a spectrogram from a calibrated measurement mic there's a pretty clear peak at 6kHz. The drill drivers I've been looking at all have a rated sound pressure level (Lp) around 76 dB so they should already be noticeably less loud, but I'm hoping to find one without those high frequencies if possible.

I've been able to test a few drills in person and got some initial impressions. Unfortunately the local hardware stores have a pretty limited selection of brands, they don't have all models in the store, and you usually have to bother the staff if you want to try something with batteries in it. At first I thought I could remember my subjective opinion of different drivers, but when I later got the opportunity to re-compare two of them head to head I realised I have really bad memory..

Head-to-head comparisons that I've done:

Makita DDF484 vs Dewalt DCD791: The Makita has a very high frequency whine, kind of like dentist's drill. The Dewalt is probably just as loud, but a little lower pitch making the noise slightly more tolerable, while still not great.

Makita DDF484 vs 485 vs 486: When it comes to high pitched noise, 484 was worst, followed by 485, and the 486 was most tolerable.

Dewalt DCD791 vs DC800: The 800 had a more high pitched noise than the 791, once again reminding me of the dentist's drill.

Not compared with anything, so only subjective impression:

Hikoki (a.k.a. Metabo HPT in USA) DV18DD and Dewalt DCD777: Smaller and weaker tools but much more quiet than everything else. If I were going to buy 2 drill drivers I'd probably get something like these plus one larger for heavier work.

Metabo (the made in Germany, non-HPT, brand) DS 18 LT BL: Only had a quick try with this machine but without having anything to compare it with I thought it sounded pretty reasonably tolerable. There's a version with quick change chucks, unfortunately only the smaller (L) and larger (LTX) models have offset and angle chucks for some reason but that's a feature I would really like to have.

Anyone compared Milwaukee to other brands with respect to noise? The only store I found that sells them said they didn't have any charged batteries so I couldn't try any.

Not exactly sure what I'm expecting from this post, since the question is so subjective.. Perhaps someone with experience of multiple cordless drill drivers could share their opinion? Or someone else with a similar aversion to high pitched noises could say if they found any tool that they're happy with?

[-] [email protected] 18 points 1 year ago

Not just talk about implementing it, but also making it opt-out (i.e. enabled by default). If I understood it right, the author of the proposal even writes that that opt-in is useless, because nobody is going to enable it, which kinda makes it sound like they know that they're trying to push something on users that they don't want.

1
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I've been toying with the idea of replacing all my old, mostly corded, power tools with a single 18V system and like many others I'm trying to decide between Makita and Dewalt. They seem to be pretty even and most recommendations boil down to "pick the colour you like best".

However I bought a subscription to a magazine that does a lot of product testing, and saw that they gave all Makita drills the lowest rating in the "expected battery life time" category because they only lasted 300 charging cycles out of the 400 they do as part of the test. Now 300 cycles is quite a lot for a home DIY:er, but is battery life something that Makita owners have had issues with? I can't remember seeing anyone complaining about it when looking for user reviews and comments. However I do have a vague memory of some pros complaining about Makita "smart" tools shutting down supposedly because they detect that something might break, thus forcing the owner to hand it in for service.

Article in Swedish, and probably paywalled.

edit: Since I doing a bit of testing how annoying (i.e. mostly how high pitched) different drill drivers sound, which hopefully could be useful to someone else, I've updated the title to include this.

3
submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

The 7.1 receiver that we've had for quite some time feels like it's about to give up so I'm considering some kind of upgrade. I'm a bit frugal when it comes to this stuff, so I'm trying to find a good value option that won't have to be replaced too soon. I.e. I'm not looking for something really cheap that doesn't sound good, but I also don't want to spend more than necessary, as one quickly gets into diminishing returns territory.

Now I'm thinking that it's the video and digital pre-processing parts of the home cinema system that age fastest, and it feels wasteful having to replace all the power amplifiers, which is the case of an integrated surround receiver. But looking at the local stores there's a complete lack of mid-range surround pre-amps.. There are plenty of good surround receivers around €1000, but for pre-amps there's a single crap model for €500, and then the rest are €4000-20000. Do companies simply not make the product I'm looking for?

I could definitely buy a surround receiver for €1000 and be happy with it, but I know I would hate it if I had to replace it the next time we buy a new TV because it has a new HDMI version or something stupid.

2
submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Been thinking about adding a little bit of bass to the home cinema system, both for watching movies (i.e. LFE) and to support the bookshelf sized front speakers. Was hoping to not spend too much money, but I also don't want something that sounds bad, or only provides rumble without much distinction to different sounds. Got a medium sized room which I've estimated to 67m³ (2350 cubic feet) so I'm leaning towards dual subs.

Current options I'm considering:

  • Pre-built subs, probably XTZ 12.17 Edge
  • DIY Dayton Audio 15" flat pack, with either RSS310HF-4 or HO-4
  • DIY VBSS with GRS 18PT-8 18"

The total cost for either option would be around €1500, since I would need to buy some power tools to build the VBSS.

From what I've read the VBSS is supposed to sound fairly good, especially in the mid-bass region, while lacking some very low bass compared to the DA Reference and Ultimax drivers.

Anyone have some experience with the above subs, primarily the VBSS?

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fhein

joined 1 year ago