dmenezes

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Great mods, thanks for sharing them!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Thanks for the clarification.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Thanks for the link, really appreciated! This is exactly what I was thinking about, very glad to see you did it already, so now (a) I know it works, and (b) I don't have to start from scratch.

I will look for a local for-hire 3D printer so I can manufacture that, thanks again!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

ZWB3

Holy crap. I hadn't even heard of ZWB3 until now... :-)

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (3 children)

What's "filtered"? After coming through a ZWB2 filter? or something else?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Oh man, don't even get me started on the NiCads. My beloved old Ti58C calculator used a pack of them and it was actually what killed her :-(

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

The Pinecil is a good station

And it has its own RISC-V MCU and runs opensource IronOS which really tickles my geek bone ... ;-)

but you should also look for a larger bevel tip to use with it.

I was planning on getting the whole set of "normal fine" tips; perhaps I should get the "normal gross set" instead? Or both? Or either/both of the gross or/and fine "short" sets?

Now I'm confused... 🙃

I’m using a flux syringe for easier application. And solder does have a flux core but that quickly burns away and is only useful if you’re feeding solder directly into the joint. I place extra flux on the wire and pad and then load my tip up with solder

Thanks for the pro advice! Will be sure to get one of these too!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Oh no a reddit link /s

An old reddit link ;-) At least while the effers there don't cut old.reddit.com out completely, that is.

They were so wet that water was dripping from the pcb. It wasnt a good felling

Holy crap! :-( That would have freaked me out completely :-(

Mind telling us exactly what those "wet conditions" were?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

This is discouraging re: Hanklights. :-(

Meanwhile, my much much cheaper TS10 was actually able to resist immersion for many minutes with absolutely no water ingress nor any ill effects: https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/10vm19z/my_wurkkos_ts10_is_now_with_the_fish/

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Good tip, but the OP should be aware that when at 3.7V they have only ~50% charge in them, so remember to also pack a spare or two (at the same voltage) to have the same total runtime.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

That's pro stuff, way above my league :-) Seriously, my current soldering iron is a dumb piece of crap, I do want to upgrade to one of these eventually: https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/

I don't think I've ever used (separate) flux; this is what you mean, right? Isn't it supposed to be incorporated inside the solder nowadays?

[–] [email protected] 10 points 1 year ago (6 children)

Mechanical switch lights like the Convoy S2+ do not have any parasitic drain. But be aware that the batteries themselves have some self-discharge, Li-Ions are the worst at something like 5 percent in the first 24 hours and then loses 1–2 percent per month. Protected Li-Ions are even worse at 4-5% per month.

If you need to keep them stored for long periods, get an AA-compatible or dual-fuel flashlight and use Eneloop batteries for rechargeables, or Lithium primaries if you don't need/want to recharge.

 

If anyone hasn't read his excellent blog post yet, I strongly recommend it: https://zakreviews.com/pages/r-flashlight.html

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