Scereth

https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases

Find it here https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-gradient

cross-posted from: https://kbin.social/m/3DPrinting/t/129643

I love the YT channel Project Farm. It's unbiased, well thought out, practical, and numbers-focused (as much as a video can have without getting boring) approach is refreshing. Not every test is perfect, not every sample size appropriate, but this is a mechanical guy that knows his shit and is as curious about the results as the audience.

His latest video compared a bunch of ratchets from different manufacturers... plus a 3D printed one. Made of carbon fiber nylon and printed with a newly purchased BambuLabs X1 Carbon, it failed miserably.

The problem?

I'd assume it was print orientation. It's printed on its back, with the socket connector pointing up, meaning layer lines are parallel to the force.

But, then I did a little digging...

Here's the presumed model. It's 100% print-in-place. I assumed the instructions would make mention of the correct orientation. They don't. Uh oh, am I the wrong one? Nah, probably just a random, low quality model, right?

Oh, it has a decent number of makes that were presumably done in the default orientation, but maybe... oh, okay I'm deeeeefinitely wrong.

This is the first time an object has been designed on Earth and then transmitted to space for manufacture.

I assume it's oriented for printing without much fiddling. Looking at the Thingiverse comments, there are people have success with PLA.

Maybe the temperature was too low to get good layer adhesion. Is CF Nylon brittle? Could leaving the filament out a few days, being so hygroscopic, lead to this?

So, any other ideas out there? Should he have used a different material?

(Also, it's worth mentioning that he specifically says he bought the printer just for this test, so I'm not sure how much experience he has with 3D printing. That's wild to say because if you hear someone say they printed carbon fiber nylon, you assume they have significant experience. But, as an X1C owner myself, that's a totally realistic possibility.)

cross-posted from: https://kbin.social/m/3DPrinting/t/94050

I have an ender 3 v2, upgraded the springs/leveling knobs, and slapped on an auto leveler. I do really enjoy the printer, but I've found between work and raising a toddler I just don't have the time to tinker like I thought I would. I assumed I would need to do general maintenance, but mostly be able to just print things fairly regularly. Seems I mostly just re-level this printer and barely get to actually print things.

What I'm wondering is if the P1P is as "tinker free" as it is marketed. I don't mind maintenance, cleaning and all that, but do want to be able to have an idea and just kick off a print job.

Thanks in advance, I could just be leveling it crappy all the time too. Wouldn't surprise me if I am just missing some critical information or something on how to level and keep it leveled.

Officially priced at $699 or $949 for the combo. It comes with an air filter, led, camera, aux fan, and plastic enclosure.

More info here https://bambulab.com/en/p1

Purchase here (not affiliated) https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s?variant=41211805696136

Here is the link to Bambu Labs Filament Guide

Here is a link to a Google Doc with many filaments listed, although it has not been updated in some time.

Below is a list of brands/types i have personally used in my X1cc's, and if they fit the AMS and some comments. Afterward are a number of other filaments that users on Reddit have reported to work in the AMS.

Brand - Type - Fit AMS - comments

• Overture - Matte, PETG, TPU - Yes (Not TPU) - slow down first layer and increase temp by 10 for PETG (cardboard spool) (MatterHackers and Sunlu PETG are better)
• Eryone - Silk, Metallic, Matte, Glitter - Yes
• eSun - Silk, Matte, PLA+ - Yes - increased the temp on the generic PLA profile by 5-10 for the matte and PLA+
• BambuLab - Matte, Basic, silk, PC, ABS, Support W/G, Metallic, Glitter, Tough, Marble, PA-CF, PLA-CF, PETG-CF, PAHT-CF - Yes - Love the PC, PLA-CF, and support W
• Amolen - Wood, Silk, Glow - Yes - Love their wood and silk, Wood prints fine with .4 nozzle.
• MatterHackers - PETG - Yes - Their PETG prints so good, Thanks to whoever on here told me to try it!
• PolyLite - PLA Pro - Yes - Cardboard Spool, Prints great using Polylite profile
• TTYT3d - Silk - Yes
• DO3d - Silk - Yes - I think this is rebranded TTYT3D
• CC3d - Silk - Yes
• Bblife - Silk - Yes
• Hatchbox - Wood, Matte, Glitter - Yes - their wood does not print well (then again it may have needed drying), love their Glitter
• SunLu - Silk, ASA, PETG, PLA - Yes - Loving their ASA & PETG (can be a bit brittle); I run their PLA using the BambuLab profile and it prints great (cheap if you can catch on sale)
• 3DBest Q - Wood - Yes - cheap filament prob won't buy again
• TIANSE - PLA - Yes - Cheap prob won't buy again
• CERPRiSE - PLA - Yes - Cheap prob won't buy again
• FilamentOne - Gitter - No (too wide) - Love the glitter but sucks to have to respool it to fit the AMS
• Flashforge - Silk - Yes - prints great with generic silk profile.

Filaments others have reported on.

• Polymaker - PLA, PLA Pro, ASA, PETG, PC Max, Support - Yes - (cardboard spools) print rings, use tape/adapters
• IIID Max - PLA, PETG, ASA - Yes
• MatterHackers - Pro PVA - No -
• MatterHackers - Quantum, Build PLA, ABS - Yes
• Inland - PLA, PLA+ - Yes
• Duramic TPU - NO - Spool fits but Do not put TPU in the AMS!
• Overture - Easy Nylon - Yes
• eSUN - PA-CF - Yes

These are of course all for the standard 1kg spools.

My favorites I have used in order BambuLab (faster, simpler) the PC and PLA-CF are AMAZING, Sunlu (PLA,ASA,PETG,silk), Amolen (wood, specialty silk), Hatchbox (all good), eSun (all good), Eryone (all good), TTYT3d (silk), CC3d(silk), and MatterHackers (PETG).