My choice for said application is the LT1S (non-pro). There are a lot of Andruil enthusiasts out there, but I’m not one of them. The LT1s (non-pro) has an easy UI that is simple to learn and does everything you could want. Some of the reviews of the LT1s pro aren’t very flattering in terms of output and PWM.
Fair point, but there is built in protection that opens the circuit when shorted. It may still pose an issue in certain environments, but the vast majority of users won’t have an issue.
Or at least file it down so it cannot make contact with the battery?
I have several Andruil lights that I really like. The problem for me is that I frequently need the internet to remember how many clicks or holds from ON or OFF are needed to get it to do something I want or need. Andruil is great but the complication (outside of simple mode) just isn’t always desirable. The other downside to most Andruil lights is that they commonly use FET or direct drive. For folks who prioritize flat regulation, it makes most of them less desirable.
Anyway, there’s a place in my collection for all kinds of UI’s. That’s part of the fun.
Skilhunt has one of the least complex UI’s around. Press for on, hold to cycle modes, double press for turbo. Not sure if too many share you opinion of it being “complex”.
Not sure what “lumenitis” is, but most people are excited for the H150 because of the Nichia 519a in 4500k, Skilhunt build quality, and excellent drivers with flat regulation.
The UI appears to mirror the latest versions on Skilhunt lights. I’m a fan, but some aren’t.
I ordered the olive green with Nichia 519a and 14500 for $50.90. Now to play the waiting game.
Around $50 depending on options!
For clarity, there’s no risk of the light (battery) exploding itself. The current shuts off immediately when shorted.
The scenario where there could be risk is if a metal shaving arcs the pad and there is a combustible gas or liquid in the immediate vicinity of the light. I would be way more worried about sparks from other sources (metal on metal, static electricity) in that environment than I would be about this flashlight.
Not really an issue for the vast majority of users but worth the disclaimer and the one star hit IMHO.
So can you just drop a 70.3 in the L35 with the existing driver?
B or D.