ErgoMechKeyboards
Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards
Rules
Keep it ergo
Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)
i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²
¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid
No Spam
No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.
No Buy/Sell/Trade
This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.
Some useful links
- EMK wiki
- Split keyboard compare tool
- Compare keycap profiles Looking for another set of keycaps - check this site to compare the different keycap profiles https://www.keycaps.info/
- Keymap database A database with all kinds of keymap layouts - some of them fits ergo keyboards - get inspired https://keymapdb.com/
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Nice! If you haven't bumped into it, then the build log of the Steel Tormentor and it's cardboard prototype have been really illuminating for me.
Edit: Also, an Inkscape trick: you can set it's zoom using a real ruler placed on the screen so it can show you your drawing real size. Then you can test button placement without having to print.
Wow, great content, it will definitely be helpful once I start building the keyboard, my father in law works with laser cutting and acrylic so I'm planning on using it for the case/board
About the inkscape tip, I'm doing this, helped a lot because I could fine tune the angles and offsets pretty quickly
Edit: I put up my .svg files here, in case they might be useful.
Cool! I just did a full Inkscape+laser-cutting build using MDF and acrylic. I'm still to write something up about it, though. In short, I used a 1,5 mm acrylic bottom cover, on top of that 2x 3mm MDF as "case" (minimum height with a 1,5mm plate), the top one supporting the plate, but with larger holes so the switch clamps fit, a 1,5mm acrylic plate, and finally another MDF layer on top of the plate, outlining the keys, for aesthetics and rigidity.
After having set up the keys, I used mainly offsets around those to do the outline etc.
It's sexy and looks comfortable, do you enjoy the MDF board?
Thanks :)
Yes, I do! I enjoyed a cardboard prototype before, and only just finished this. I really like it. The fit is great, and I like the sound. I gave it some small feet in the back (some 3mm foam tape) to lift it a bit from the table/deskmat, to get some more sound out - there's zero space between the switches and bottom plate.. And I like the sound.
Switching to the prototype, I switched to Colemak, too. I'm still learning that. So I'm by no means a fast typist on it yet. But I already know better where the keys are on Colemak than I did on QWERTY, and I think the symmetric, column-staggered layout helped a lot with that.
I did a prototype using cardboard today to test how typing would feel, I loved the column staggered layout, feels way better than the default, I might give a try one day to colemak, but I'll try not to change radically now, once I get used to the split keyboard I'll try other things too
Yes, column stagger is amazing! Congrats on the prototype! I ended up using mine a bit over a month before getting a nicer, revised version cut. I learned from that. Removed some keys, moved some a bit.
I've read elsewhere that switching to a new layout is easier at the same time as changing to ergo, instead of later. I've had some time off, that's why I did it now. If I had been busy, I'd rather have started using my new board and the old layout.