3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
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If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
(for various reasons I needed to join a mismatched pair of 18v drill and battery, annoyed at how much fun it was)
@Mwallerby Let the mutants rise! I My entire suite of old ni-cad PC tools run like a charm on DW batteries.
Be careful... IIRC, DeWalt batteries actually rely on circuitry in the tools, and it's possible for an old tool to over-discharge them and reduce their capacity pretty drastically. Specifically, it seems the "low voltage cutoff" lives in the tool for DeWalt (and Makita and Milwaukee I think), while Ridgid, Ryobi, and B&D have it in the battery. The two former are for backwards compatibility, and I think the latter because god knows what stupid garbage tools they'll throw at the line next (though my B&D sander is... fine).
@wjrii Thanks for the good information. I knew that PC NiCad tools had no communication to the battery, not sure about their newer LI ones. Regardless I find that the DW batt last so long on the PC tools that I always end up charging them when I think I should rather than when they actually need it. Rarely do they get down to 1 light, let alone full discharge As the PC tools die (which is taking a very long time, only 1 of 9 so far) going with DW brushless which have even better batt life.