Headphones

78 readers
1 users here now

Tiny speakers for your head.

A community for audio enthusiasts, discussing news, reviews, and DIY projects involving headphones, amplifiers, and DACs.

Resources:

-crinacle's Ranked IEM List (250+ compared)

(more to come)

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
1
1
Planar iem (self.headphones)
submitted 9 months ago by Philo to c/[email protected]
 
 

First time listening to classical with my Acoustyx S6, and I lost my lower jaw on the floor somewhere. 🙃

2
 
 

Just discovered this app. I love that it allows me to default to LDAC 16/44/quality settings without having to manually fiddle with developer options every time I connect headphones, earbuds, and speakers. I can also toggle between LDAC 16/44/quality and LDAC/16/44/adaptive settings with one click through saved profiles. Paid $4.13 for the premium app. Well worth it for audiophiles who use LDAC.

3
2
submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by HumanPerson to c/[email protected]
 
 

Hi. I am looking to buy some Bluetooth earbuds and want to know what you all like. I am sure I will miss some things, but there are some features that I care about:

  1. Noise control features. I would prefer ANC and an ambient sound mode, though ambient sound is more important to me.
  2. Apps. I don't want to use an app for them. If there is an optional app that is fine as long as they are good without it.
  3. Durability. I will drop them, possibly in water, I want something solid.
  4. Price. I am looking for something under $120, but could go up to 150 if they are really good.

I don't know if this is the right place for this, apologies if it isn't.

Edit: for anyone wondering / also looking for earbuds, I gave up looking for good Bluetooth and got Moondrop Jiu. They are wired but sound great (IMO. It's subjective obviously.)

4
 
 

Hello everyone.

I'm seeking guidance for an issue I'm having with a new pair of HyperX Cloud II. I had an older model (shipped with 2 x 3.5mm jacks 3 pins ). I loved them, but they broke.

I bought a new pair (73EUR | shipped with 1 x 3.5mm jack 4 pins + wired USB dongle). When wired through the USB dongle, I have terrible audio + microphone quality. The USB driver shows as "HyperX Virtual Surround Sound (Generic USB Audio)". The best supported format is 16 bit 48000Hz.

When wired directly to the motherboard using 3.5 jacks (extra splitter 1xF 4pins to 2xM 3pins), I have good audio + microphone quality. The USB driver shows as "High Definition Audio Device". The best supported format is 24 bit 192000Hz.

I installed the most recent driver from HyperX support page. No change. I forced a manual driver install on the USB dongle to use the Realtek HD Audio, but it isn't compatible/not supported and there's no audio ☹️

Do I have a defective part? Or wrong Windows 10 driver? Or is this a shitty USB driver implementation by HyperX and there's nothing I can do about it?

Any input is welcome.

Thank you. Have a great day.

Cheers.


5
 
 

I'm currently using an Astro mixamp (2011 version) for my headphones but it's starting to die, I don't really know much about dacs/amps or what my options are to replace it with something better?

I mostly use my setup for gaming, with some music listening or creation here and there, and I'd like to keep the price at or below 200$

6
 
 

It seems like open back are the defacto recommendation for headphones. I already own an AKG K240 and since I intend to use them around other people, I don't want the noise bleed. What do people prefer for closed back applications? I've been looking at the DT 770 Pro's and the Hifiman Sundara Closed. I really like a sound signature with a bass emphasis. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

7
 
 

After a year of using JLAB JBuds Air ANC, I am done with the company and their trash products. I have wasted 60 Euros on this piece of garbage, just for them to constantly unpair, not charge, be massive with the sound not being good enough to excuse their size.

I am currently trying to exchange them in Alza for a cheaper JBL product.

If you think about buying any JLAB product, try to find a cheaper or even a more expensive alternative.

My horror experience with these pieces of plastic garbage make me wanna chuck them into a river.

8
 
 

DAPS have better internal hardware for audio, and it provides a distraction free listening experience, but is it worth paying a premium for one? Especially when there are more modern solutions out there such as portable Bluetooth DAC/Amps such as the Fiio BTR7 or Qudelix-5k paired with your smartphone. I'd love to hear your thoughts!

9
 
 

I like IEMs and love that I can swap cables on them if they get damaged, but I can't keep having to buy new IEMs once I inevitable break or lose one of them because of the cable. My first pair, which had MMCX cables, I lost one of the sides because the MMCX cable had become loose and I was running and it dropped out, and I couldn't find it again. My second pair, which was a 2 pin connector, I had wanted to listen to music in bed with it, and when I woke up one of the pins had been lodged in the IEMs itself and I couldn't get it out for the life of me. Now, I'm back to cheapo soldered headphones, which is fine, but the sound quality was definitely better when I spent close to 100 dollars on the IEMs previously. Does anyone sell headphones with a locking mechanism, so that the stress of movement goes to the housing of the connector and IEM instead of the connector itself?

Here, https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Fusion-Wired-Controller-Xbox/dp/B0897THHDJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QO66HKB6O2R7&keywords=fusion+pro+controller&qid=1696711417&sprefix=fusion+pro+controller%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-3, in the second image, you can see that the cable has a locking thing on the controller so that if you yank it out or otherwise stress the cable, it goes to the chassis instead of the USB. Hoping to find something like this.

If it is going to be headphone specific, I would love for it to be in a V shape, since I am a basshead.

10
11
 
 

You've seen a Schiit stack. Well here's a Sabaj stack.

The headphone amp is cheap and good. Completely black background and three gain levels.

The dac unit has a ton of inputs including coax, optical and Bluetooth. Sadly Bluetooth mode induces RF interference, but I rarely use it, so meh.

The dac unit is now discontinued.

Also pictured: Dunu Titan S and Fiio btr3k.

12
7
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

After a couple years of wearing my K371, often during sweaty gaming sessions, my pads have deteriorated. I'm looking for comfortable gel cushions, which could last a bit longer than memory foam. Old reddit threads and Brainwavz's website suggest I get Brainwavz oval, but I'm hoping if anybody here has any other suggestions as I enjoy the original pad's sound signature and don't want it to change too much.

13
 
 

I've owned the DT 1990 Pro for a couple years now and it's absolutely the best set of headphones I've ever used. But fairly recently the creaking issues that many other users reported have crept up to me.

https://imgur.com/Tvxdfqa

https://imgur.com/X9aIbz8

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/beyerdynamic-dt-1990-pro-beyers-open-back-mastering-headphone.814629/page-93#post-13962732

Basically anytime I moved my head around I would hear what sounded like a piece of plastic being rubbed against another piece and causing creaking noises. I tried to tolerate it but alas it was too much.


The Problem

The molded plastic of the earcup and the plastic frame of the driver are sitting in a way to cause minute rocking when the headband flexes the earcup from head movement. Imagine the outer plastic as an ellipse and the driver as a circle within the ellipse. The circular driver will be free to rock within the ellipse shape of the outer plastic. Even if the driver finds a point to settle, flex introduced into the cans via headband will cause distortion which forces displacement of the drivers causing creaking.

Although, perhaps the driver isn't meant to be 'over-constrained'... To explain further, the retaining ring clips on to the earcup and compresses the foam pad and driver which also has a soft pliable material glued to rest against 3 prongs on the ear cup. This technically prevents the driver from flying about in the earcup. Where it gets over-constrained is from the frame of the driver making many many point/area contact around the earcup. Thus causing a binding condition to occur.


Solution

One purported solution was to loosen the two T6 flat head screws that hold the earcup. This reduces the amount of earcup flex caused by the headband which does reduce the amount of creaking but will not eliminate it all together.

The solution then is to restrain the driver within the earcup in a way it wont creak.

You'll need to take it apart to access the driver.

Dissembly

  1. Remove the earpads, plenty of videos on how to do this but all it only takes a light pull to remove it. random 3min YT video

  2. Unclip the retainer. I found it easiest to wedge a flat head down into the smallest of the 4 tabs. Small push no prying. See image. https://imgur.com/20dG9Ma Once one came out the rest came out easily.

  3. Now you'll have access to the driver. Mind the location of the key and push down around the driver. It didn't take much force to cause the creaking. See image https://imgur.com/Qb4V1lJ

On my particular headphone I noticed an up-down creak (relative to the picture).

  1. To remove the driver, place your hand over the driver in preparation to catch it then flip the earcup over. It should just drop out. A couple taps was necessary for me.

  2. Shim one side where the creaking was the worst. I chose to use a piece of teflon tape, it's thin and I suppose the reduced friction helps? The plastic frame of the driver is fairly skinny so I cut the tape in half.

This is where you might have to take it differently since your earcup/driver dimensions&form(shape) will be different. I did consider taking a file to it and shaving off a bit around the perimeter so the driver isn't over-constrained but I didn't want to go that route unless necessary.

  1. Put it all back together.

Conclusion

It was fun looking for a solution. Root cause analysis is something I attempt do all the time as an R&D machinist.

It's a huge relief to not have to put these headphones away either. Since these are the most priciest set I have.

Let me know if this worked out for you.

14
4
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

I'm looking for opinions on good mixing headphones. I've been using Sony MDR 7506 for a couple of years and they are starting to peel, so I'd like to reserve them for recording situations and upgrade to something new for mixing.

If I'm understanding correctly, open back are superior for stereo image and bass so I'm interested in those. Feeling a bit of choice paralysis since there are so many options / different models that people swear by.

Also wondering how loud are they for those around you? Would being in a midly treated room with the door closed be silent from outside the room?

I'll be saving up for whatever I decide on, so budget isn't a big issue, I'll wait longer if needed. Hoping to stay under $500 Canadian or so.

BTW I would put "true" /flat sound as a priority. Also I have small ears.

15
 
 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ca/post/6069408

Universal Link: [email protected]

Direct link: https://lemmy.film/c/headphones

Sidebar:

Let us help you identify that mysterious object you’ve found.

Community for audio enthusiasts, discussing news, reviews, and DIY projects involving headphones, amplifiers, and DACs


I'll also make a cross post in the community being promoted, as a way to bring the community up in people's feeds and also let people know about [email protected]

16
6
Purchase Advice (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

Looking to get new headphones since the battery is now shot in my Corsair

I'm looking for:

  • Mostly listening to music, some online meetings, some single player games (I am not an audio file)
  • Bluetooth that can save multiple devices
  • Over ear
  • Noise cancelling (preferably adjustable, but not necessary)
  • Microphone (preferred but not necessary)
  • Under 300 (preferably under 200)

Whenever I search online the lists are always "here is the best for 500 - 1000, or really affordable, but with no features"

Thank you in advanced!

17
 
 

Hi everyone, i want some advice, so my budget maxes out at 100usd, I want to try an open back or new experience but on the other side I want to buy it for work use too,

my past headphone is ath-msr7se which the left ones died after 4years and have ath m20x still going on after 10years.

Could anyone share any suggestions? I heard edifier wireless w820nb+ is adequate for the budget but on the other hand grado sr60x seems to have really awesome sounds after watching dankpods (i've listened from friends too, grado sr60i which is very fun, but i dont know for long term use)

18
 
 

Hey all,

I'm looking for a decent pair of headphones around $100ish US. I would like the following:

  • Wired
  • A mic or a slot to put one
  • Some kind of spatial audio
  • Comfortable to wear for long periods
  • All features available without the use of proprietary software

The headphones will be driven by a desktop computer and used for communication, gaming, and listening to music. Can anyone here recommend something?

19
 
 
20
 
 

Anyone got suggestions for a good pair of headphones to use in the gym and/or for running? Cannot stand earbuds, have tried several, including very expensive ones and they just don't do it for me.

21
 
 

cross-posted from: https://kbin.social/m/[email protected]/t/447034

Technically the successor owner of the gaming brand.

Epos has announced that it will be exiting the gaming headphone business and will instead focus on enterprise communications products. The company's gaming products...

22
 
 

Hi @ll,

I was wondering, after using a loaned SPL Phonitor X for a while, whether there is some software solution for Windows that modifies the sound output similar to what the Phonitor's "Matrix" does?

I'm very much hooked to what I can do with that amp, but it's VERY hard to swallow that kind of monehs just for this feature.

Regards,

  • Michael
23
 
 

Over the past few years, I have bounced from iem to iem. Most of them were around $20, so I just replaced them when something went wrong (and I couldn't fix it or had to buy something to fix it). However, I had a recurring problem after about 2-5 months of daily use. The left channel gets super quiet. This has happened on every single iem I have owned over the past 3 years (except for my er2se which got stolen very quickly after I got them). This happened recently to my Arias, which I do not want to replace ofc.

I have tested the device or dongle, and they are good. However, I do not have a spare cable, so I cannot figure out whether it is the cable or the actual items themselves. I have been storing them in an iem pouch from another fallen iem. I have coiled the cable up every time and have kept it mostly in my pocket. I have also cleaned the nozzles of the iems, and my ears. Should I buy a new cable, or is there something else I could try to fix the problem?

24
 
 

I am looking for advice on how to manage the cable of my In-Ears. I need ones with cable because of lack of bluetooth, and I need them to be small because I usually have other stuff to carry around, so please don´t recommend wireless or Over-Ears.

I currently use a small zip lock bag to put them in after use, but even there, they get tangled up, unless I spend the same amount of time storing them as I do now untangling them.

So...has anyone got an idea on how to store them better, that is, faster and without getting a giant knot? Or are there small and easy-to-store In-Ears that I am unaware of?

PS just to explain my use case: I recently got a mini-keyboard that fits in my backpack which I use to play on my train and bus transit. It only has a 3.5mm jack. Sometimes I get carried away a bit while playing and then have to frantically pack everything in order to not miss my station.

25
 
 

For gaming, I've been rocking cheapo Superlux 668b with velour pads for 5 years or so and I'm looking for a bit of an upgrade.

What I like about them is just how wide they are. That's what I was looking for when buying them, it's what I've gotten used to over the years and it's what I still want.
Second to that is comfort. The 668b themselves are pretty bad in this regard but the velour pads are truly transformative here. Comfort is pretty decent with them, so I'd like at least that or (ideally) better. On-ear or shallow pads are out of the question.

What I don't like is how bright and kinda sharp they sound. It kinda gets on my ears after a while. This is what I'd like to upgrade the most but build quality is kinda wonky too.

I had a pair of Sennheiser 660s for a while and while and while I much prefer their sound signature (still a bit odd tbh) and greatly appreciate their comfort and imaging, they just don't do it for me in the sound stage department, so I returned them.

I tried the HD800S at a local HiFi store and they're amazing. Probably my end-game as I didn't like any of the other (supposedly) HiFi headphones they had there (x000€ headphones that rattle when shook and/or have the comfort of a 30€ gaming headset; wtf?).
They're a tad too expensive for me though. They're extremely good but not 10x as good as my 668b, so they fall very flat w.r.t. value, and kinda overkill for my purposes (mainly gaming).

Other headphones I have tried:

  • AKG K712: Didn't immediately seem to be a downgrade in sound stage but I don't think I fully liked them. I'll have to re-test them.
  • ATH-M40x: Didn't buy them for gaming but they're obviously very tight. While also quite V-Shaped, they're not as "sharp" as the 668b
  • HiFiman Ananda: Decent sound stage but terrible material quality (I want to upgrade away from that). Also too expensive for what it is and the bass makes me sick

Other constraints:

  • AMP is a MOTU M2. Should be able to power everything that isn't terribly inefficient.
  • No wireless.
  • Must be reasonably purchasable in Germany

What other headphones do you think are worth checking out?

view more: next ›