It's A Digital Disease!

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/MoneyGuess on 2024-01-18 16:05:48+00:00.

I'm an RN and decided I don't want to work on the front lines. For the past few years, I have been studying in my free time to learn SQL, Python (somewhat), SAS, Excel, and Tableau. Mostly the basics, but enough to create projects to showcase in my portfolio.

I applied for around 115 jobs and had over 20 interviews. I finally landed a job as a Senior Analyst, but I barely feel like a junior. I have medical knowledge, but I feel like I'm losing it by not working on the front lines. On the other hand, I have some technical knowledge, but it's only the basics.

I'm having so much anxiety and can't sleep at night.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/tachibanakanade on 2024-01-18 16:02:40+00:00.

I have (or, had,) three NAS drives: one WD MyCloud, one WD MyCloud Home, and one WD MyCloud EX2 Ultra. I got the WD MyCloud in 2017 and now, after being online 24/7 since then, it has died on me. I plan on taking it to Geek Squad to liberate the drive from the dead enclosure.

But my question is: how long do NAS drives last? And does it being user-servicable or user-nonservicable matter? I was hoping to get at least a decade out of it.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/RileyKennels on 2024-01-18 15:53:21+00:00.

I have a Seagate drive (Seagate Exos) that has increasing bad sectors. Seagate approved a warranty replacement online with free shipping.

They emailed a prepaid shipping label and the packing instructions state the following:

Place the drive in a bubble wrap envelope or a box lined with bubble wrap. Do not use packing pellets, peanuts, air bags or newspaper

All I have are the standard HDD "air bag" that Newegg uses to send out the hard drive. But the instructions explicitly say do not use air bags!

All of my other HDDs have the exact same form fitted airbag.

TBH any drives I have bought that didn't have one of these airbags, arrived damaged the last thing I want is the drive to arrive to Seagate with physical damage.

What would you do in this scenario? I don't want to mess up the RMA process and end up with a delayed return or return to sender situation.

Anyone have experience returning to Seagate? What did you use for the packaging?

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/myc123 on 2024-01-18 15:51:18+00:00.

hypothetically

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/japertas on 2024-01-18 14:57:15+00:00.

Sharing my current experience with Seagate RMA process, which has proven to be one of the worst CX of my life (...so far). Has anyone else had issues like this?

TLDR: Bought a drive from Amazon, refurbished Seagate 16tb. Drive failed within a year, seller and Amazon ignored requests to honor the warranty (Amazon only offers 3 months, Seller does not respond). Seagate offers to help, and replaces the drive. Replaced drive starts failing within weeks (bad sectors), and I initiate RMA. This results in 3 different case numbers being created (every time I reach out), each time agent would promise RMA has been created, with nothing delievered in email/mailbox. Apparently, the replacement drive is registered to another person (agent referred to me by a wrong name, and shared their email address too). Last #3rd case attempt, agent suggests the first replacement was an exception, and they can't help me. I am lost at what happened, what do I do with the brick.

Full story:

2022 Oct.

Purchase a refurb drive on Amazon JP, store it as a replacement.

Amazon renewed items come with 3month warranty, but seller advertises drives with 5 year warranty.

2023 Oct

Connect the drive - it's dead. Can hear a clicking noise, won't power on (troubleshot with different cables, etc.). Contact Amazon, Seller. Amazon can't help (past 3months), Seller doesn't respond.

2023 Nov

Reach out to Seagate, and after providing proof of purchase, they agree to replace. Here starts the FUN. They deliver a new drive two weeks later. The new drive starts spewing bad sectors in hundreds every few hours. First I follow protocol, try to register the drive on their site - drive is "already

returned", can't start RMA through the website.

2023 Dec

Reach out to Seagate to start RMA. All is done via Messages/iMessage app. A human agent replies me, requesting my personal data - email,name, country, serial # etc. I provide all, including previous case number. Then I get back: "Sure, Jack (name changed), please allow a few minutes". I'm not Jack, but I let it pass for now.

"Can I initiate the process, Jack?", I say sure, but add this time "I'm not Jack". They apologize, but then ask "I believe your email is "[email protected]?". I say no, it's not, and to refer to the previous case # I have given, instead of guessing my PII. Agent suggests, they will escalate this to a "concern team". Nothing for a week.

First, I reach out through their compliance line, that they just dumped somebody elses personal information on me. They reply me with "thanks for letting us know". Same day, in same email thread they tell me RMA was already created and sent to me. Nothing ever arrived. They ask for a picture of the drive. I send it back to them. They reply - they will consult "concern team". Nothing afterwards for a month.

2024 Jan I reach out again to them on Messages. I provide agent with serial number, case number. Agent suggests, there's no RMA order created as of now for the drive. They suggest I can do it myself, by using their website. I tell agent to eat grass - I have already tried this, didn't work because it is incorrectly registered as belonging to some Jack, and previous agents who promised RMA was in process.. were lying to me? I ask agent to complete RMA for me, as previous agents promised they would. Agent replies - they will try.

They ask for proof of purchase - I tell them it's a replacement drive from Seagate. Agent insists to see the original drive purchase - I send them invoice of the original drive. Agent suggests, it's a refurb, so they can't help me. I tell them, they already did help me, sent me a replacement that failed.

Agent suggests - this was a one time exception. I ask them, what am I supposed to do? I can't send the replacement back to seller (who replied FINALLY, two months later via Amazon), because it's a new serial number. And now stuck with a month old Seagate replacement, and "tough luck!"?

They reply - they will consult "concern team" within 48hours. Nothing yet after 72 hours.

Is this an isolated case? Could I expect better experience with WD/other companies? Can't sleep at night now, knowing i have 4 more Seagate drives in my Unraid array.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/chemhha on 2024-01-18 12:48:37+00:00.

Currently on my build I have a cheap Teamgroup 256GB M.2 NVME SSD and a old Toshiba 3TB 7200RPM HDD.

The SSD is at 65% health and is being used mainly for OS, programs a few games so I don't care if it suddenly dies. It's not the fastest but it works fine.

However all my personal data and games are on the old HDD which I keep since my first gaming build. It's almost 9 years old and hast 32569 hours (3,75 years) of active usage. It still works pretty fine even for gaming. The only game than ended up having some reading speed problems was Cyberpunk but this only happened in the endgame. This made me worry a bit because I thought the HDD was dying.

Athough SMART values say everything is fine. I ran a long surface test with Victoria and passed without problems. I'm still a bit concerned since I don't have a backup or anything.

Unfortunately my motherboard only has one M.2 slot so if I wanted to make a only SSD build I'd have to replace the current one.

I'm considering buying a 4TB HDD to make backups or maybe replace the older one. I have seen many good options with 256MB cache. I guess the higher the cache the better(?)

Also I thought about buying something like Intel Optane or an Hybrid HDD...

What would you choose?

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/OldMcGroin on 2024-01-18 11:54:28+00:00.

Hi all. So I bought my first enclosure at the start of December () and I've now put together a bit of cash for the first 20TB HDD. I've never bought one of these before, can someone tell me if the following one would be reliable etc? It's recertified and from what I'm reading that could mean it's in good shape considering the manufacturer has conducted more quality tests? My use for it is Plex media. I'm the only user of the server so it won't be on constant use.

Or would there be a new one for around the same price that someone could recommend? Thanks.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/Smior on 2024-01-18 11:19:49+00:00.

Unlike the 3.5" drives I've shucked, this doesn't have a standard SATA connection. I'm thinking internal USB 3.0 port from a PCIE slot but I've never seen such a device.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/CokeZoro on 2024-01-18 09:33:30+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/JeNeSaisPasWarum on 2024-01-18 09:17:51+00:00.

Hello, community.

Does anyone has experience with this product or similar (on basis of chipset JMicron JMS561) ? If yes, when you connect it in linux with two hdd in it, do you see them separately in /dev or just as one disk?

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/2001_F350_7point3 on 2024-01-18 09:08:35+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/strich on 2024-01-17 06:54:41+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/Monterey-Jack on 2024-01-17 02:59:12+00:00.

Is it possible to download all of the contents somewhere before they close for good?

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/Renoir_V on 2024-01-17 14:55:38+00:00.

Hi, I have recently got an internal SSD for my laptop. Same size as my external one. I've tried to use Acronis but it will not copy it to the new internal drive, due to the different in file system.

It's just games, some applications, some videos. I don't want a boot file, or the OS or anything.

Do I just copy it, and convert my internal SSD from a NTFS file system to a exFAT, so the data will transfer. Maybe find a way to convert it back to NTFS?

Will normal Windows Explorer CTRL C + V work?

Anything else I can do, or will I just have to reinstall everything.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/knoker on 2024-01-17 14:33:58+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/Endeavour1988 on 2024-01-17 13:11:37+00:00.

I'm limited with ports on my laptop and they are USB A 3.2 one is connected to a hub for wireless dongles, mouse etc. Which leaves me two more and I have 4x portable 4TB hard drives which are USB powered.

Does anyone know how many I can plug into a USB 3.0 dock and keep them all powered on and also not ruin transfer speeds? I do have a TB4 port but everything for that seems very pricey.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/leonzon on 2024-01-17 12:22:45+00:00.

is there any way to compare what id downloaded vs what is on amazon cloud easily.

thanks

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/eyecannon on 2024-01-17 23:42:19+00:00.

I am having issues getting a brand new WD Gold 12TB drive to work in my Windows 10 Pro computer which has a decently recent motherboard (MSI X570 Gaming Plus, flashed latest BIOS). The disk is recognized no problem in the BIOS and in Windows, including with the WD Dashboard tool. Correct capacity and everything. However, when I go to Disk Management, it already was showing a 2TB partition and a 9TB partition. Besides initializing with GPT, I could then not do anything else in Disk Management, everything was greyed out. So I tried a couple of different partitioning softwares and they would always either fail or complete, but not actually do anything. I tried diskpart and had similar results, but it would say i/o error. I ran SMART and it was fine. In looking around, I read about the new issue with "Power Disable" on the SATA power connectors, but this doesn't seem to apply because my disk was powering on no problem and recognized (I tried the molex adapter trick, and there was no change).

I decided to take it to work and pop it in our "enterprise grade" server running Windows Server 2022 and using diskpart, I was able to set GPT, clean it, and create a 12TB NTFS partition right away. I set if offline, removed it, and brought it home, but Disk Mangement immediately was showing the 2TB/9TB thing, and the partitioning software was able to read the drive label I had added, but it would not let me set a drive letter (however, it was showing the 12TB partition properly in the partition software). Tried a few more things, but clearly there is some incompatibility here, or I'm hitting a limit in Win 10 Pro?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/wokecycles on 2024-01-17 23:19:42+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/jordanisplaying on 2024-01-17 23:01:18+00:00.

I've seen some users recommend Macrium Reflect to clone an OS drive, but from my understanding this would rewrite the entire HDD when copying the OS drive over. If this doesn't happen and I'm wrong that would be great! Otherwise, if I want to copy my boot drive with the OS, along with other non-boot drives all onto one HDD roughly once a week for backups, what is my best option?

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/EchoGecko795 on 2024-01-17 22:58:02+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/_Nismo on 2024-01-17 22:10:01+00:00.

Is the H.264 vs 265 something that is already on the source disc? In other words, you don't need to control the type of compression on a rip, it's just going to get whatever it's already got?

And if you want to do a 1:1 rip with no compression, what option is what in something like MakeMKV or DVDFab? Watching some videos, I think that "MKV Passthrough" is what is needed for a 1:1 rip?

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/RamyNYC on 2024-01-17 21:06:06+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/Royal_Difficulty_678 on 2024-01-17 20:50:23+00:00.

I purchased a brand new 2TB Samsung T7 shield from an expensive and reputable high street retailer chain rather than Amazon to (hopefully) make sure it's legit. I've decided to transfer the main SSD c drive of a laptop onto an external SSD before giving the laptop away.

I'm doing a 680 GB transfer using TeraCopy which was going well with an estimated total ~ 2 hour transfer time. However when it reached around "95% done" with about 30GB left the transfer says it will take 6 days at around 50 kb/s.

Anyone know whats happening or what I can do to get the final 5% of the transfercompleted? I really don't want to stop this transfer and restart it all over again as it's 96% done and worried the issue will happen again the second time

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The original was posted on /r/datahoarder by /u/simpl66 on 2024-01-17 20:31:31+00:00.

TLDR: Should I push Seagate to recover my data in order to formally scrub it to eliminate the risk of it being recovered by someone else as it goes to recycling?

I recently purchased a defective external hard drive. It worked long enough for me to upload one batch of data on to it, but when I turned it on a second time, it had stopped working after multiple attempts.

The data on it is not critically sensitive, but I'd still feel weird about it being recovered by someone. I recently contacted Seagate as I have one-year warranty that includes data recovery services. The specialist I spoke with did not want me to push to use the data recovery services coverage.

He assured me that if I returned it to the store that it's sent to a warehouse for recycling.

My question is should I go through the hassle of getting Seagate to recover data in order to formally scrub it or do you think it is safe enough to return as normal?

Thanks