BayofBiscay

That's ~~bodhi~~ Torren Martyn

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

Today rode down the line in shoulder high waves.

I can trim and feel at ease in hip high, working to carving. Also consistent take off & dtl surf in waist high.

Maybe one day I'll leave beginner stage. (But I'll always be a kook, just because I can).

Just thought I'd share and maybe get this community running.